Rob walking the crux. Notice the cross through fl...
Description
A bold lead if you're feeling strong! Also a great toprope, this climb mixes sequential face climbing with a few burly crack moves. There are some sketchy moves below the first bolt that can be protected by RPs (check it out on TR first if you're not sure about the placements), but the rest of the climb is fairly well protected.
Climb the face past 2 bolts then head up and right to the undercling crack. Traverse this up and left and prepare for the big final move! A good TR or a bold lead- either way it's a fun climb. A toprope can be set up by climbing the first pitch of Tongo to the left.
Protection
Bring some RPs to protect the bottom 20 feet before the first bolt, a couple of 'draws for the 2 bolts, and some small cams for the upper crack. There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top.
I thought it was a good route. I don't remember any rp's to protect the start, though. After clipping the first bolt the gear remains good. Crux is pullin' on a crimper... way more straightforward, and basically easier, than the start of Country Club, the start of Athlete's Feat, and the beginning, slabby moves of Never a Dull Moment, all of which are rated one or two letter grades easier. Duncan Burke
I couldn't find any gear worth putting in before the first bolt. It's not much of an issue as the climbing up to that point is fairly easy. This is an excellent and pumpy lead, well worth doing. I don't know if I would say it's as hard as 11d though.
I just got on this route today and I thought it was absolutley fantastic, except for the lack of bolts at the beginning and end. I would propose that this route be retro bolted and fixed so other people can enjoy it. I know, I know cracks and all that (the only placements are the handholds), but I led it on gear and it was stupid, so what if we made it a quality sport route?
This route definitely does not need any bolts added. It is perfect as it is! It is an exciting lead but has probably been led hundreds of times if not much more. Not every route has to be dumbed down with a bunch of bolts. Leave some routes for those who like a little adventure and challenge.
I'm not asking for "dumbing down", just making a quality route safe to lead. I was just proposing that there be bolts where it's not safe to put in pro. I wouldn't want to disrupt anybodys ballsly 11d onsight, so mabe we should continue the bolt wars of old, let's leave it as is, there are fragile egos here....
My buddy, Steve Annecone, figured out how to get two good pieces (a yellow/green offset Alien and an RP) before the first bolt. The gear makes for a pretty damn safe lead and should only be considered S, at the worst.
Castle Rock
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