Dan Levison sending Vaso (opening moves pictured)....
Description
Vasodilator definitely lives up to its name. This is a fantastic line by Mark Rolofson that will keep you working the entire time. Multiple 5.12 cruxes grace this overhung line leading you to the final moves on "The Egg". This is a brutal, smooth bulging arete that keeps you from getting to the anchors. Unlock the secret to these moves and the route is yours. Pay close attention and look for many sneaky rests on this route, you will need them. A variety of moves describes this climb with thin crimps, slopers, jugs and of course thuggish climbing through the egg section. Definitely a three star route.
From Bolt Cola (previosly listed as number 29, now listed in a different section of the cliff), head up the obvious gully past a few bolted routes. Continue up the gully until you get to some fourth class climbing past some large boulders / chockstones. Above these, you will find a good belay area underneath the huge overhanging arete. There may be some slings hanging from the upper bolts to help find the route. This climb is in the sun during the winter and makes for a good climb on a sunny day.
This is a great route if want to do a 13a, but I don't have tons of bouldering power. There is no single stopper move, just lots of V3 type sequences. It also lends itself to creative beta and good resting skills. Most of the hard sequences have several options.
The long sling is definitely useful for getting the rope up and/or working the moves on the crux. Unless your name is Sven, and/or you have had the satisfaction for the flash of this fine route, then you have probably made good use of the sling in the past. I agree that it may be unsightly, but I favor leaving it. That tat is phat.
Adam, the difference between the tat and other garbage, is that the long sling serves a purpose, and has been placed intentionally. On this route, in that location, it is extremely useful for those that don't flash 5.13. The bolt is in a good location for the red point. IMHO, moving the bolt would be a mistake. Whipping off the crux is clean and fun, but most folks probably were gald to have the sling to yard on, so they could clip the bolt and work out the moves. I think you should leave this one alone. And,..if u take dat tat, is will be back.
Adam, why do you even bother to ask others for their opinion? I offered my opinion after you requested feedback in this public forum. Two of three people that responded said they did not have a problem with the sling, and then you post "so I'm going to take it down." It sounds as is you feel strongly about this webbing, and are going to do what you want anyhow. Go for it. Next time just do it, without the disingenuous call for other's opinions and all the preaching. BTW, I didn't put the sling up, as you insinuated in your last post.
Confession is good for the soul, right? I was working on this route in the spring of 2000. While working on the egg portion on lead, my partner and I took several very dangerous falls. When we fell fairly high on the egg (which is easy to do), we'd swing down and sideways, with our legs clipping the rope below the bolt. That caused us to windmill out of control and in one case I nearly whacked my head on the rock. I thought it was very unsafe, so I stick clipped the bolt above the egg. I then came back and placed the long sling to allow clipping from below and largely eliminate that problem. I left it there after I finally sent the Violator (took a long time and a lot of belayers) because a friend wanted to work it. I am not sure whether the sling up there is still the same one. I would think it has gotten frayed from whipping around in the wind. I did not think it was an eyesore since hardly anyone can see. Anyhow, that's the story. I think most people would be grateful for the long sling (or the addition of a bolt). But, if someone wants to remove it, I certainly wouldn't fight about it -- just warn people. Done.
In regards to the webbing on the last bolt most people use it to pre-clip before doing the crux sequence and not as a point of aid. Two years ago I asked Mark if he was willing to reposition the second to last bolt down and right which would have prevented either the presence of webbing or repositioning the last bolt, Mark's opinion is that the bolts are fine where they are. I respect that, but also be aware that as long as people continue to work this route, the webbing will continue to be present, whether it gets repeatedly removed or not!
Instead of complaining about the unsightly view of a piece of webbing blowing in the wind, perhaps folks could be more constructive and rebuilt the approach gully, which is far more unsightly. I have done some minor landscaping work in the past with boulders and wood present, but I believe that this effort could be better taken up by one of our organizations, as an Adopt-A-Crag event.
So, the sling/tat/satanwebbing talk is super important, but what I'm wondering about is what hold you people clip the last bolt from. The finger lock? The sloper left of the finger lock? The Crystal? It felt like I was heading too far right when I followed the chalk up the arete/egg. Seems like it would be quite a swinging fall from over there. Any tips? Oh and as of now there is no webbing on that bolt so if anyone's been holding back from a webbing-tainted redpoint it's sending time for you! Thanks.
I was on Vasodilator in mid-December and haven't return since due to the recent snows. At the time, there were draws in place on the whole thing, which is certainly convenient; however, the draws are in truly horrific shape. I've never been more certain that a quickdraw would break if I'd fallen on it. A few of the draws are in decent condition, some questionable, and some down right life-threatening. I recognize and adhere strongly to the rules about respecting others' in situ draws on routes, but, in this case, it seems irresponsible to leave these potential time bombs open to the public. As far as I know, the draws are still there (as of 1/8/07). I would vote to remove them as soon as the weather allows climbing in the canyon again. If you did at any point leave draws on the route, go get them and throw them away (maybe not the biners). If they're there later when it warms up, I might have to make an executive decision and get rid of them - they're more in the way and potentially dangerous than helpful. Imagine climbing Vasodilator with a string of small cams and RPs instead of bolts and you get the idea.
By The Uninvited From: North Boulder CO Aug 13, 2007
The draws that are hanging... are they new??? They look like it.... I am trying to make this my first 13a.... These aren't the draws from earlier this year??? I.e made it through winter???
The flake side pull between the 8th and 9th bolt gave way and is now gone. so instead of going out left you can mantle straight up from the clipping hold at the 8th to the clipping hold at the 9th. I don't think it changes the grade any. Happy sending.
Right Gully
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