BETA PHOTO: Selected routes on the north face of Tonnere Tower...
Description
Short crux sections on both pitches two and three. The technical stemming on the last pitch is really fun!
P1: Start by climbing Crackdown, Before The Deluge, or Fine Fir to their common anchor on a pedestal about 65' up. Crackdown is the suggested start.
P2: Traverse right from the belay to a thin seam/crack...place thin gear and then clip a bolt. Make a hard move to a good edge/flake, then climb up and right to a two-bolt belay. 5.10+, 50'.
P3: Climb up the shallow corner above the belay to a steep corner with three overhangs. Stem past three bolts, turn the final overhang, and reach the upper wall. Angle right and climb a moderate left-facing corner and cracks to a two-bolt anchor. 5.10+, 95'.
Descent: Rap 95' back to the anchor below the roof, then 110' down a gully to the start of Local Hero. A 60m rope works with a bit of easy downclimbing. Go up a steep path to the left to get back to The Garden.
Alternate descent: You can angle the second rappel sharply to the left to reach The Garden after 95'.
By percious From: Arvada, CO Oct 18, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Interesting 2nd pitch! The bolts are well placed. It looks like a key hold might come out. (There is a loose, triangular block above the roof that creates a good hand-hold.) I wonder if this would go at a lesser grade if someone cleaned the crack above the roof?
I think this one could go trad if you were ambitious. Maybe some day.