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The Garden
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B Boys, The 
Before The Deluge 
Border Crossing 
Crackdown 
Dutch Treat 
Fine Fir 
Just Do It 
Showtime 
Smooth Operator 
Storm Warning 

The B Boys 

5.10+

   

FA: Bob D & Bruno Haché, 8/07
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 463 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Sep 20, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Selected routes on the north face of Tonnere Tower...


Description 

Short crux sections on both pitches two and three. The technical stemming on the last pitch is really fun!

P1: Start by climbing Crackdown, Before The Deluge, or Fine Fir to their common anchor on a pedestal about 65' up. Crackdown is the suggested start.

P2: Traverse right from the belay to a thin seam/crack...place thin gear and then clip a bolt. Make a hard move to a good edge/flake, then climb up and right to a two-bolt belay. 5.10+, 50'.

P3: Climb up the shallow corner above the belay to a steep corner with three overhangs. Stem past three bolts, turn the final overhang, and reach the upper wall. Angle right and climb a moderate left-facing corner and cracks to a two-bolt anchor. 5.10+, 95'.

Descent: Rap 95' back to the anchor below the roof, then 110' down a gully to the start of Local Hero. A 60m rope works with a bit of easy downclimbing. Go up a steep path to the left to get back to The Garden.

Alternate descent: You can angle the second rappel sharply to the left to reach The Garden after 95'.


Location 

The Garden area. Route #27 in the beta photo.


Protection 

P2: 1 bolt and thin gear (small cams). 2-bolt anchor.
P3: 3 bolts and gear up to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.



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The last pitches of The B Boys and Smooth Operator.<br /><br />The B Boys has fun technical stemming past 3 bolts (10+), and then merges with Border Crossing (8 trad). <br /><br />Smooth Operator has difficult face climbing past 2 bolts (11+), then merges with Local Hero (10a mixed).

BETA PHOTO: The last pitches of The B Boys and Smooth Operator...

Routes on the pinnacle on the north face.

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the pinnacle on the north face.


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By percious
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c

Interesting 2nd pitch! The bolts are well placed. It looks like a key hold might come out. (There is a loose, triangular block above the roof that creates a good hand-hold.) I wonder if this would go at a lesser grade if someone cleaned the crack above the roof?

I think this one could go trad if you were ambitious. Maybe some day.