Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Creekside
Show routes:
Select route...
Creekside Cruise 
Curtain Call 
Liquid Therapy 
Local Hero 
Los Pinos (The Pines) 
Spirit on the Water 

Local Hero 

5.10a

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio, Ron Olsen, Bruno Haché, and Ken Cangi, 8/07
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 210 feet
Views: 1,108 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 20, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Selected routes on the north face of Tonnere Tower...


Description 

Local Hero is a mixed route that starts right above the creek, with fun slab climbing on the first pitch, and a neat roof and airy arete on the second pitch. It ascends the right side of the prominent pillar on the north face, finishing up just right of Showtime. This is one of the best routes on the crag; don't miss it!

Start at the base of Creekside, by a gully, just above the creek.

P1: Start up rock on the left side of the gully, then stem up the gully to the first bolt on the right wall. Clip the bolt and move onto the wall. Make some tricky moves (9+) past the second and third bolts. Continue up face and cracks and move left to a steeper headwall. Climb straight up from here to a ledge by a pine tree and a two-bolt anchor. 5.9+, 100'.

P2: Step right from the anchor onto an arete. Clip a bolt and move up to the right side of a roof. Traverse left above the roof to a slab. Climb the slab (fun moves!) past three more bolts to a small roof with a hand crack. Get pro in the crack (#1 or #2 Camalot), step up and clip a bolt above the roof, and crank over the lip (10a; easier if you're tall). Continue up face and cracks, heading toward the arete on the right. Climb the arete to the top of the pinnacle, and a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Border Crossing and The B Boys). 5.10a, 110'.

Descent: Rappel 95' straight down to the anchor on The B Boys. Rappel 110' from here to the gully at the start. A 60m rope works with a little bit of easy downclimbing.


Location 

At the gully at the base area of Creekside.

Route #30 in beta photo 1, beta photo 2, and beta photo 3.


Protection 

P1: 5 bolts and gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 8 bolts and gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of Local Hero Slideshow Add Photo
Routes at Creekside:<br /><br />29. Curtain Call, 8+, 2p, mixed.<br />30. Local Hero, 10a, 2p, mixed.<br />31. Creekside Cruise, 7, 1p, mixed.<br />32. Liquid Therapy, 10 or 8, 1p, mixed.<br />33. Spirit on the Water, 9+, 2p, mixed.<br />34. Los Pinos (The Pines), 9, 5p, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Routes at Creekside:

29. Curtain Call, 8+, 2p, mi...

Routes at Creekside:<br /><br />30. Local Hero, 10a, 2p, mixed.<br />31. Creekside Cruise, 7, 1p, mixed.<br />32. Liquid Therapy, 10 or 8, 1p, mixed.<br />33. Spirit on the Water, 9+, 2p, mixed.<br />34. Los Pinos (The Pines), 9, 5p, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Routes at Creekside:

30. Local Hero, 10a, 2p, mix...

Irina Overeem on the first pitch, cranking the fun move past the third bolt.

Irina Overeem on the first pitch, cranking the fun...

Irina Overeem traversing left on the second pitch.

Irina Overeem traversing left on the second pitch.

Irina Overeem on the fun slab moves below the roof on the second pitch.

Irina Overeem on the fun slab moves below the roof...

Irina Overeem stepping up at the second bolt on the first pitch.

Irina Overeem stepping up at the second bolt on th...

Routes on the pinnacle on the north face.

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the pinnacle on the north face.


Comments on Local Hero Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Tombo
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.9

Fun route, not over bolted and for the most part bolts are where you want them. Light rack of stoppers and one each of gold Alien to #2 Camolot is all that is needed to lace up.

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.9

A few bolts where gear was an option, but mostly right on. Actually, the route is decently protected by bolts alone, as the gear moves are not difficult. Do take a few long slings for clips that are not in-lin or are below a roof. The 3 stars is reflective of the length of the route done as a single 60M pitch and the exposure up top. It is the top half of this one that earns its stars- the bottom is sort of discontinuous.