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Work It On Out 

5.12c/d V5-6

   

FA: Jesse Guthrie, 1994
Type: Sport, Boulder
Consensus: 5.12d V6- [details]
Length: 18 feet
Views: 436 page views

Submitted By: Zed on Sep 9, 2007


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Description 

Make powerful moves on small, sloping edges, past three bolts to a pretty good edge at the lip. There are better holds over the lip for clipping the anchors. I think that, move-for-move, this route climbs like 12d. However, because there is no climbing up to or out of the crux sequence (entire route), there is no pump factor, making the route feel a bit easier, overall.

This might be considered a highball boulder problem by today's standards, although crash pads probably wouldn't prevent a certain level of injury if you blew the top moves.


Location 

Located on the lower Coney Island wall, immediately left of Dampened Enthusiasm.


Protection 

3 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.