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Treasure Wall
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Bobby's Back 
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Twilight Kid, The 
Twilight Time 
Workingman's Blues 

The Twilight Kid 

5.11-

   

FA: Bob D, Ron Olsen & Greg Hand, 9/8/07
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 581 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Sep 8, 2007


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Sergei cruxing on the upper corner.


Description 

The Twilight Kid is an excellent new sport climb on Treasure Wall. Great slab climbing just right of Join the Party.

Boulder up to a high first bolt. Clip the first bolt then head left following bolts up to a tree. Go right at the tree (hard move) and then up cool moves into a short corner. Make a cool move out the corner and then up to the anchor. Lower back down from the hooks.


Location 

Take the Treasure Wall approach, and hike right up the hill about 50' to the highest ledge, by a big pine tree. Start on the face by this tree.

Route #16 in the beta photo.


Protection 

Nine clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.



Add Photo Photos of The Twilight Kid
From the bottom of the climb, showing five of the bolts and the anchor.

BETA PHOTO: From the bottom of the climb, showing five of the ...

Selected routes on the north face of Tonnere Tower:<br /><br />Treasure Wall:<br /><br />14. Buried Treasure, 9, sport.<br />16. The Twilight Kid, 11, sport.<br />17. Fields of Gold, 10a, mixed.<br /><br />The Garden:<br /><br />19. Just Do It, 9, mixed.<br />20. Fine Fir, 7, mixed.<br />21. Storm Warning, 10a, toprope.<br />22. Before The Deluge, 10a, sport.<br />23. Crackdown, 9, mixed.<br />24. Showtime, 8+, mixed.<br />25. Dutch Treat, 8, mixed.<br />26. Border Crossing, 8, mixed.<br />27. The B Boys, 10+, mixed.<br />28. Smooth Operator, 11+, mixed.<br /><br />Creekside:<br /><br />29. Curtain Call, 8+, mixed.<br />30. Local Hero, 10a, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Selected routes on the north face of Tonnere Tower...

Routes on the right side of Treasure Wall.<br /><br />14. Buried Treasure, 9, sport.<br />15. Join The Party, 9, trad.<br />16. The Twilight Kid, 11, sport.<br />17. Fields of Gold, 10a, mixed.<br />18. Workingman's Blues, 10, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the right side of Treasure Wall.

14. Bu...

Matt Gates at the crux, moving past the little tree.

Matt Gates at the crux, moving past the little tre...

Routes in Sport Land:<br /><br />1. Toe The Line, 10b, sport.<br />2. Generous Donation, 11b, sport.<br />3. Tag Team, 11a, sport.<br />4. Total Eclipse, 10a, sport.<br />5. Sidekick, 11a, sport.<br />6. Nick Of Time, 6, trad.<br />7. Hard Times, 11c, sport.<br />8. Face Off, 8, sport.<br />9. Stayin' Alive, 10a, sport.<br />10. Clean Sweep, 9, trad.<br /><br />Routes on Treasure Wall:<br /><br />11. Tree Line, 9, sport.<br />12. Twilight Time, 10a, sport.<br />13. Bobby's Back, 10d, sport.<br />14. Buried Treasure, 9, sport.<br />15. Join The Party, 9, trad.<br />16. The Twilight Kid, 11a, sport.<br />17. Fields of Gold, 10a, mixed.<br />18. Workingman's Blues, 10, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Routes in Sport Land:

1. Toe The Line, 10b, sport...

Close-up of routes in Sport Land:<br /><br />1. Toe The Line, 10b, sport.<br />2. Generous Donation, 11b, sport.<br />3. Tag Team, 11a, sport.<br />4. Total Eclipse, 10a, sport.<br />5. Sidekick, 11a, sport.<br />6. Nick Of Time, 6, trad.<br />7. Hard Times, 11c, sport.<br />8. Face Off, 8, sport.<br />9. Stayin' Alive, 10a, sport.<br />10. Clean Sweep, 9, trad.<br /><br />Close-up of routes on Treasure Wall:<br /><br />11. Tree Line, 9, sport.<br />12. Twilight Time, 10a, sport.<br />13. Bobby's Back, 10d, sport.<br />14. Buried Treasure, 9, sport.<br />15. Join The Party, 9, trad.<br />16. The Twilight Kid, 11a, sport.<br />17. Fields of Gold, 10a, mixed.<br />18. Workingman's Blues, 10, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Close-up of routes in Sport Land:

1. Toe The Line...

Climbers on Treasure Wall. Brenda Gates (gold shirt) is on The Twilight Kid; the climbers to the right are on the first pitch of Fields of Gold.

Climbers on Treasure Wall. Brenda Gates (gold shi...


Add Comment Comments on The Twilight Kid
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By Ken Cangi
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 9, 2007
rating: 5.11-

Fun moves on the upper slab.

By Jake Wyatt
Sep 14, 2007

Great moves between the small tree and the anchor.

By djoseph
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2007

This is a wonderful climb. If you like balancy, delicate moves, definitely check it out.

Please note that as of 10/1, the flake/bulge above the second bolt seems slightly loose. If this pulls, it will send a 30 lb piece of rock down to the belayer. Take caution when pulling on it.

On the rating: I hate downgrading against consensus, and would love to know that this was a 5.11 climb. (It would be my first 5.11 flash!) However, our group felt like it was more like 10c/d. It felt easier to me than some of the mid-10s at the first tier of Avalon. I might re-climb and re-assess.

Regardless, a great line.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Oct 1, 2007

Dan...like most new routes in Boulder Canyon grades will differ due to cleaning and other circumstances.

Grades are not set in stone and are a gauge to use when climbing. Consensus takes time and more ascents.

Glad you liked the line...it is quite good.

Also..I have seen people climb the crux just left of the tree...on the FA we stayed on the clean face right of the tree.

By djoseph
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2007

Interesting... yes, I think I did angle left once I was above the tree... (seemed like a good deal of chalk out there!) I'll try staying to the right next time and see how it compares. Thanks for putting up the line, Bob and Ron.