Despite the poor review this climb gets in the Falcon guide, it is actually a surprisingly fun romp.
Pitch 1 begins as a wide chimney that can be done in a variety of ways. Gear placements are generally good in this section. Climb up and right at the start and negotiate some chockstone boulders in the ramp. Keep climbing once the terrain gets grassy. You will pass the bolts on the left that lead to Cussin' Crack. Eventually a wall will force you to traverse right and out. You'll find a large ledge with a two bolt anchor. This should be practically a full rope length on a 60m. Communication with your belayer will be next to impossible, so have some sort of signaling system worked out ahead of time.
P2 is where the fun starts. Above you will see a crack and a possible way left. Step up and climb left, stemming over the delightfully airy drop off. Then, move up the face and find a slopey ledge. Climb up the ledge and move left, placing only a small cam perhaps as you go. You'll end up on a large ledge that leads to the walk off. Belay in any number of places that allows you to be above the traverse.
The descent is located on the side facing the road. Generally, it trends to the left of the trees you see on the way down. At the short crux downclimbing part, you can elect to rappel from a chain wrapped around a tree.
By Cody Munger From: Carson City, NV Oct 5, 2005 rating: 5.6
A few notes:
I didn't like the looks of the chimney start for my beginner on the first pitch, so I opted for the slab to the right. I was able to place a stopper (which popped out) about 8 feet off the ground, and then I ran it out the rest of the way (about 25 feet from the ground). Good 5.6 s warm up for the 4th class hiking above.
Make sure you don't stop in the gully until you hit the double bolt chain anchor at the base of the crux pitch. Less pitches that way.
Be careful of rope drag on the crux pitch. I found I was zig zagging a lot looking for the easiest line. The 5.8 direct finish would have probably been less draggy (and more fun). But then I'd be hauling my 2nd up manually.
Fun route overall. Though I couldn't really see it, since I was doing an after work sunset race.
Two FEISTY ravens have built a large nest in the ramp just before you exit right at the top of the first pitch. Though it would have added some spice to the route, we opted not to challenge them.
Only about 10 feet of rope remain (using a 60m) when finished belaying the leader up this fun climb. For my first real chimney, the start of Jackson's Wall was a challenge but fun to try to figure out (though not much rock suitable for pro placement) how to climb (you can also climb the face, but pro is very limited)! For the chimney, first face left, then half way up you have to turn around and face right, then move out on the face for a bit until you catch the crack up to the short traverse right to the rather obvious belay ledge. On P2 there are a couple of exposed moves you have to do, but relatively easy climbing. The second move after the ledge is a bit of a push up onto a ledge about 6" wide at most that is made by a rather sharp flake. You can try to do a foot jam in the flake while you pull yourself up, but I found this to be a bit awkward when trying to get my foot out at a sharp angle while pushing up onto the ledge. If you go left, you will find some footholds that will help you. The next move is a high step right up onto a narrow stone ridge-like flake that gives a lovely view between it and the main rock down to the road and water below. From there up it gets easier and less exposed. Nice variety of moves required. Relatively easy walk off the opposite side down to the left. Enjoy! Girasol
Weird route. The first pitch (or two as some people do it) is not very aesthetic or fun, at all. Once you reach the bolted belay, the climbing is steep and fun for the grade, but be very mindful of rope drag, unless of course you are fond of climbing one handed with a mouthful of slack just to manage the drag....
If you can, run it out a bit, it's much more enjoyable that way.
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