Start up the face 5 feet right of The Memory of Trees by a left-facing corner. Then scramble up to a small overhang and the second bolt. For the next couple bolts, the objective is to have as much fun as possible staying high on the face, avoiding the large tree and class 4 corner on the right. The best part of the climb is near the end, when the quasi-traversing ends and you fire straight up to the two-bolt anchor shared with The Memory of Trees.
The crux may be found at the start or high on the face near the 6th bolt. May be easier than 5.8 if "cheating" and finding the easiest line....
Protection
7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 60m rope needed to lower.
I led this route yesterday without any previous knowledge of it. I felt it was 5.6 at most, and I pretty much climbed straight up without much regard for finding the easiest path. My climbing partner led the route and felt it was 5.5, but he did traverse some for the easiest path. In either case, we both found it to be an enjoyable route. But use a 60m rope as a 50m rope barely makes it to the ground.
Well, if you don't use your left hand for the first 20', then you can't use your right foot for the rest of the climb, it makes it 5.8. Just kidding.
Yeah, the only thing "difficult" about this climb I think I made up in the grungy corner to keep it interesting. Not really worth doing really...
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 23, 2002 rating: 5.7
The starting moves can be done directly up the face to the first bolt without getting into the grungy corner on the right. The upper slab has a spot of 5.8 if you stick to the bolt line; easier variations exist to the left or the right. A fun slab pitch; worth doing as a warm-up for Memory of Trees. Slightly harder than Lothlorien. One star.
Per RR: "Road to Isengard ", 5.7. Crappy down low, but quite good second half.
By Jake Wyatt From: Longmont, CO Oct 19, 2003 rating: 5.7
I was finally able to climb this route today. (I wasn't the one who added the route to the database.) Probably about on par with Lothlorien in terms of difficulty, but a few more bolts and a little longer.
I agree with Ron Olsen's assessment. Follow the bolt line for thoughtful footwork and moves (for the grade). Fun climb, especially after the first bolt or two.
The Watermark
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