Start on the ground a few meters Right of Magic Wand and climb up 3-4 meters to a thin crack (good small nuts), then up a face past small cam placements, then bigger ones. Aim for just left of a solitary small dead tree. After passing this, and just below the top, step left and follow a right-leaning crack with some solid flakes in it to come eye-to-eye level with the anchors on 'Magic Wand' which are just to your left. The last bit is the crux and protects well.
This is the best trad line at the crag and one of the better lines over all.
Location
This route ascends the face just right of 'Magic Wand' on natural features and protection. The gear is better than it would appear from the ground and does not require runouts or much craftiness.
Protection
Good gear. Take a light rack from small/med nuts and cams to 3.5"
By Tradsplatter From: Boulder, CO Aug 18, 2007 rating: 5.6
Lead this pitch today. Thought middle section below dead tree was runout but could be I just didn't look enough for pro. Still, a fun moderate line. Very convenient trad line with the top anchors from Magic Wand. Good gear and cool route.
Wizard Rock
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