BETA PHOTO: Mark climbing above the first good piece of pro.
Description
The route is distinguished by the fingercracks about 2/3 of the way up, just right of the arete of Snow Crash. These are the crux is tackled directly, but it is also just as easy to move right and fight with a small bush for the 5.6 moves just there.
The Title of the route comes from A Sisters Of Mercy tune of the same title: "Like a voice in the wind blows little crystals down Like brittle things will break before they turn Like lipstick on my cigarette and the ice get harder overhead Like think it twice but never never learn..."
Location
This route ascends the line of discontinuous cracks just right of Snow Crash. It is the line you rap/lower down to the right of the anchor if you go off to the right.
Protection
About 20' to the first gear placement (2" cam) and then good gear here and there to the top. The crux protects well with small cams or Aliens, perhaps 0.5 or 0.75". Take some longer runners in case you want to wander for the most gear possible.
Climbed this excellent choss pile on 8/8/07. Accurate description of runout start...pretty mossy slab start but not too scary. Be on lookout for loose blocks. Fun crux section, reasonably good gear. Climbing is not too difficult..the real crux is making sure you don't peel blocks off this route. Nice new route...you get the alpine experience without the altitude!
Wizard Rock
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