This description & its comments are combined. Since this was the earlier contribution, Jon Cannon's was merged into this one.
A great warm up or a good lead for 5.8 climbers (it's "Turbo Bitchin'," according to a friend of mine). Jugs are plentiful on this vertical face. The route is on the Lower Animal World cliff, and ascends an obvious line of bolts in the middle of a tall vertical face. The route lies just right of 'Joint Venture.'
This route is located on the wall facing west in the West Buttress area. Good holds are plentiful for the first 60 feet or so of this route, and then start to thin out somewhat. Balance and footwork are paramount for the final series of moves, where the wall bulges out slightly. A very fun route, with thoughtfully-placed bolts.
Protection
10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 60m rope is required to get down.
A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great.
Before it was bolted, this route was led with gear and named "Animation 5.9". After receiving bolts and letter grade drop in difficulty it was listed in Rolofson's guide as "Jaycene's Dance 5.8"....
This climb has now been retro-bolted. Between the 4th and 5th bolts is a ledge. At 5 feet 4 inches tall, this was the crux for me, getting that 5th clip. I could not reach it from the ledge and had to make a move to get higher. A fall back to the 4th bolt would have been a good one. If you fall while pulling up rope for the clip.... Diminutive folks may wish a nut or two to place for this move. Just a suggestion.
BTW, adding bolts to a climb does not generally give you the right to rename it....
Despite the route names or bolting issues, the bottom line is that this is a great route for any intermediate leader. Whenever you need a good hand or foothold, there seems to be one there for you. Very little exposure on the way up to sketch you out. At the top there is a decent view up and down the canyon. Simply an all around good climb and one many should put on their "tick" list.
Random comments: The bolted route right of this is now listed here under "Unfamiliar Strangers, 5.9+", I believe. We climbed both of these and enjoyed them.
The first "action photo" on this page is not Jaycene's Dance. I don't have enough knowledge of this crag to know what route is actually picured, but it's definitely not this route.
We got lost on the way to Animal World, and climbed an obscure bolted route which is on a crag about 100 yards due west of Animal World, with the base 50 vertical feet higher. It is a fun route, probably only 5.8 with about 7 bolts on it. It is just right of a gully but I have no idea what crag it is on. There are some more bolts right of this line.
Only had time to climb for a day in a half in Colorado and really enjoyed this climb. A nice change from the slab climbing. A bit more vert and gotta love the changes in the type of climbing.
Awesome! Probably the best of its grade that I have been on in a long time. Would recommend that everyone try it.
By Ken Cangi From: Boulder, CO Nov 7, 2007 rating: 5.8
This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade.
I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge.
A trick that I learned from setting gym routes was to never set holds above elbow height, with the arm raised above my head. That pretty much assured that a shorter person had an equal chance of reaching it from the same stance. Maybe some of these route developers should consider the same practice when placing bolts.
That bolt should be a foot lower, and then the route would be better, IMO.
By Greg From: castle rock colorado Apr 13, 2008 rating: 5.8
In the route description it says "Very fun route with thoughtfully placed bolts". My thoughts exactly.
I really liked this one as well. My first 5.8 lead ever. Positive holds everywhere. The only cruxen for me were between bolts 2 & 3 and then just below the last bolt but there was/is a nice undercling there. It was wet when I climbed it on 5/28/08. I'm either getting better, or its not really a 5.8 but maybe a 5.7-.
There's a very loose flake about the size of a plate towards the top of the route (after the big ledge a bit). I couldn't pull it out, but it was freely moving in place.