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Treasure Wall
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Bobby's Back 
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Fields of Gold 
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Workingman's Blues 

Bobby's Back 

5.10d

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio and Ron Olsen, 7/18/07
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 858 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 19, 2007


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Irina Overeem deciphering the hard moves by the se...


Description 

Another good, short sport route. Start at the steep face between Twilight Time and Buried Treasure. Thin face moves past the first three bolts lead to easier ground above. Climb right of the second bolt for an easier line (10d); left of the second bolt for a harder line (11d). Continue up past the little pine to the anchor shared with Twilight Time.

You can TR Bobby's Back after climbing Twilight Time (10a).

Descent: lower 50' back to the start.


Location 

Take the Treasure Wall approach. Head right, up the hill, about 40' to the start of the route, about 10' right of Twilight Time.

Route #13 in the beta photo.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks (shared with Twilight Time).



Add Photo Photos of Bobby's Back
Close-up of routes in Sport Land:<br /><br />1. Toe The Line, 10b, sport.<br />2. Generous Donation, 11b, sport.<br />3. Tag Team, 11a, sport.<br />4. Total Eclipse, 10a, sport.<br />5. Sidekick, 11a, sport.<br />6. Nick Of Time, 6, trad.<br />7. Hard Times, 11c, sport.<br />8. Face Off, 8, sport.<br />9. Stayin' Alive, 10a, sport.<br />10. Clean Sweep, 9, trad.<br /><br />Close-up of routes on Treasure Wall:<br /><br />11. Tree Line, 9, sport.<br />12. Twilight Time, 10a, sport.<br />13. Bobby's Back, 10d, sport.<br />14. Buried Treasure, 9, sport.<br />15. Join The Party, 9, trad.<br />16. The Twilight Kid, 11a, sport.<br />17. Fields of Gold, 10a, mixed.<br />18. Workingman's Blues, 10, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Close-up of routes in Sport Land:

1. Toe The Line...

Routes in Sport Land:<br /><br />1. Toe The Line, 10b, sport.<br />2. Generous Donation, 11b, sport.<br />3. Tag Team, 11a, sport.<br />4. Total Eclipse, 10a, sport.<br />5. Sidekick, 11a, sport.<br />6. Nick Of Time, 6, trad.<br />7. Hard Times, 11c, sport.<br />8. Face Off, 8, sport.<br />9. Stayin' Alive, 10a, sport.<br />10. Clean Sweep, 9, trad.<br /><br />Routes on Treasure Wall:<br /><br />11. Tree Line, 9, sport.<br />12. Twilight Time, 10a, sport.<br />13. Bobby's Back, 10d, sport.<br />14. Buried Treasure, 9, sport.<br />15. Join The Party, 9, trad.<br />16. The Twilight Kid, 11a, sport.<br />17. Fields of Gold, 10a, mixed.<br />18. Workingman's Blues, 10, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Routes in Sport Land:

1. Toe The Line, 10b, sport...


Add Comment Comments on Bobby's Back
Show which comments —
By deb
Jul 29, 2007
rating: 5.11c

Fun climb even if short. Interesting crux. I think 11c would be a more accurate rating (based on leading it).

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Jul 31, 2007

Good job Deb...Ron went back and spent more time cleaning some of the holds. He said it cleaned up quite nicely. I could see this route rated anywhere from 10+ to 11+.

Went back and climbed this again...5.9+ right of the second bolt and 11+ left of it.

By djoseph
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2007

Fun (if super-short) line. If you like thin slab stuff, give it a try. Climbing slightly left of the bolts, no reaching far left or right, seemed like one or two 11 moves. Otherwise 10c/d. Didn't know how to rate it due to the variations. Enjoyed playing on it very much, though.

By Ken Cangi
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2007
rating: 5.10c

Rate it by the path of least resistance, which, in this case, goes straight up the bolt line. That's how routes have traditionally been rated. I would agree with the mid 5.10 rating. Fun crux.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2007
rating: 5.11

I'm curious.
Was the fixed lost arrow towards the top of this present prior to the recent ascents and cleaning? No doubt it would have been from an ascent of the crack system just right of this climb if so, but it should have precluded that top bolt placement.

I found the route to be 5.11. I warmed up on it not knowing what it was and went left (ha ha on me). I and my partner each took falls when we scaled off or broke off a foothold or chunk of one, but the climbing is now presently pretty solid overall.

I can see the reason for the first two bolts (the second one held my fall) and the third, albeit just below a bomber stopper placement, is clipped overhead just before an insecure move (crux?), but the rest of the bolts are within inches of good gear placements. Perhaps this should have been a mixed route?