This is a really nice route on great rock. Unfortunately, it's a bit contrived.
Climb through a series of roofs using blocky sidepulls and underclings until you encounter the crux- pulling onto the slab. Avoid using the corner to your right, and continue up the tricky slab to the anchors.
Location
On the northeast corner of the buttress.
Protection
This route is fully bolted, but a #2 Camalot can be used to protect the easy climbing between the last bolt and the chains.
Since the first clip is hard, you may want a stick clip.
By Ken Younge From: Boulder, CO Jul 27, 2008 rating: 5.13a
This is a great route. The grade probably drops if you cop a rest (even a shoulder scum) from the right corner before you head into the upper-slab crux.
By Dan Levison From: Boulder Aug 2, 2008 rating: 5.13a
Great summer route that stays in the shade most of the day. A four-tiered roof followed by a tricky face with a slight run to the chains. A kneepad (right knee) and taping (right hand) is helpful depending on your beta.
I agree with the comment that not using the right wall at all bumps this grade to 13a, though it is highly contrived not to use it. According to popular folklore the route was previously rated 12d and was forced right into the corner because there was no bolt on the face to go straight up. Now a bolt is added and we have a great but a bit contrived route.
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