The Enemy Within 

FA:  Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Season:  Not Winter Views: 351 page views Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 2, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...

Description 

This route ascends the conspicuous, narrow chimney between The Art of War and Thus Us. The rock is solid and good quality. Crux is in the last 20 feet of the chimney where it tapers from narrow to squeeze. Two bolts protect this final stretch. A big throw with the right arm and a virtual pullup get you out of the squeeze and up to a good stance at a two-bolt anchor with rings. You may have broken a sweat by then.

Tape up and wear appropriate clothing to protect your knees and elbows. Bolts and ring anchor were installed on 2 July 2007. Route was previously toproped. ENEMY is now a solid and reasonable lead...not a sport climb.

Location 

Find this route on the NE Face of Avalon between The Art of War and Thus Us. Start along the left side of a huge block that has fallen about 3 feet and stopped. Thus Us begins along the right side of the same block.

Protection 

Bring gear from a green Alien to a #2 Camalot. 2 bolts protect the last 20 feet of the chimney. 2-bolt anchor with rings at the top. This anchor has a good stance and can also be used for Thus Us.