Not too classic compared to the other routes in this sector. Despite the fact that this route has been around a few years, it still seems to be in the process of cleaning up.
This long line is directly right of Hot Flyer. There's a bit of glue at the crux and there are scars around many of the holds on the lower half of the route... not the most aesthetic line. Nothing obviously manufactured, but I don't think I want to know how much cleaning went into putting up this route. The crux comes at the fifth bolt pulling over a small roof onto a slab... pretty tough... open hand strength is a plus. The middle section is sustained, fun 5.11. A no hands rest comes before firing through a tricky 5.12 section (watch for the loose hold) before the anchors.
Protection
13 QDs. A 60 meter barely gets you back to the ground..
Fantastic route despite the claims of it being chipped (hard to tell). It does have a lot of rock scars and friable rock in the upper dihedral, but the roof crux is way cool and the climbing very sustained -- 100 foot (30 meter) pitch. The flake at the chains is suspect and will eventually pull off (beware). Combined w/ Hot Flyer and Plan B in a single outing -- this would be a great power-endurance workout.
Correct me if I'm wrong but.... this route seems heavily chipped. Even if there was a lot of cleaning for the first ascent, the whole middle third is covered in chisel scars and obviously enhanced crimps. A sad climb.
Adam, you say the route was chipped with such conviction. It's not obvious to me -- you may be correct; however, I would get the facts before making such a statement.
I said "correct me if I'm wrong". If I'm wrong, I gladly retract. But in this case, having seen many chipped holds on other routes (particularly other Chris Alber routes) and having dogged through Hot Flyer and checked out the holds, I have little doubt that more than a couple of the holds where chipped. No need to take offense Dan. What I said had nothing to do with you. It had to do with how the route was created.
I thought this was a great route, and as it cleans up with a bit more traffic it will only get better. It's very continuous and felt solid at the 12c grade--the thought-provoking crux is followed by 5 or 6 bolts of sustained 5.11 climbing. If you're tired of the overgraded one-move wonders in Boulder Canyon, check this thing out.
As for the alleged chipping, like Dan said it's hard to tell based on appearance. It certainly doesn't climb like a chipped route, especially at the crux, which could easily have been dumbed down a couple notches with one strategically placed quarter-pad crimp.
Either way, it's a really fun route well worth a reconnaissance burn at a minimum.
Upper Security Risk
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