Ron Olsen angling right at the small roof by the t...
Description
This route follows a rounded arete down and right of Black Rain. A fun route that goes free at 5.12a/b, or can be done with one point of aid at 5.10a A0.
Follow the approach described in Black Rain. Go 40' up the ramp right of Black Rain, then climb down to a small exposed ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Belay from here. Climb up past three bolts to a small roof (10a). Angle up right and clip the fourth bolt over the roof. Make a difficult move (12a/b) or yard on the quickdraw (A0) and step left to surmount the roof. Continue up the blunt arete past six more bolts to a good ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Belay from here. The climbing route is 120' long.
Rappel 105' with two ropes or one 70m rope back to the ramp above the start. It may be possible to rappel with one 60m rope but you will be at the very ends of the rope.
Two stars for good rock, fun moves, and a wild move over the roof.
By Bob D'Antonio From: Superior, CO Sep 27, 2003 rating: 5.12a/b
Ron, good photos. Just for the record the route goes free at 5.12a/b. I led the route with no aid in late 1999 and didn't know if had a all free ascent yet. Getting past the fourth bolt requires a few very thin slab moves on extremely sharp edges and very litte for the feet. A great route with very good slab climbing on excellent rock.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 17, 2005
The 10a layback up a ramp past the 3rd bolt leaves you in a tenuous position to make the 4th clip. My partner, who is 5'5", didn't think she could reach the clip if she were leading. The next move is the 12a/b crux (A0 if you yard on the draw). Shorter climbers be forewarned.
There's a great belay ledge at the top of the climb; bring your partner up and enjoy the view before you rappel back down.
By Scott Miller From: Denver, CO Jun 18, 2007 rating: 5.10a A0
Yeah, but I had to pull real hard on that draw.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 20, 2007
Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide lists Moe Hershoff as the "redpoint" in 1998. Is that incorrect? Should the rating be changed to be the free rating, since it has been listed as such since the 1999 guidebook.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Oct 8, 2007
The information in Rossiter's guidebook is incorrect; Moe Hershoff may have toproped the line free, but he did not lead it, according to Moe himself. The first free lead of the route was by Bob D'Antonio in 1999.
South Pillar
RSS Feed
