The first pitch arete is spectacular, because you are on the arete with lots of air and good climbing. The second pitch is fabulous! The dihedral crux makes you think, then the easier, undercling arete keeps the pitch very interesting and airy! A classic at the grade in Boulder Canyon!
P2 is a nice pitch. However, I'd be very cautious on P1. The 3rd or 4th bolt (second bolt on the pinnacle part of the arete) is attached to a very large block (which you obviously have to climb on and over) and, as far as we could tell, the block is NOT ATTACHED to solid rock. Only gravity seems to be holding it in place. For now....
EDIT: I contacted Ron about this block (9/23/07). He's looking into it and will undoubtedly provide an accurate assessment of the situation.
By percious From: Arvada, CO Oct 4, 2007 rating: 5.9
The second pitch has a nice bolted crack on it... Fun moves though. I don't quite understand why there are 4 bolts after the crack, but whatever.
"Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire."
Yup. The second pitch is pretty safe as a gear route. The only bolt I clipped was (I think) the fourth. It was just to the right of a hollow sounding flake (not the "tooth"). There's a lot of solid gear on the pitch.
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Aug 9, 2009 rating: 5.9
Great pitch but no harder than the first pitch of Buried Treasure. The link-up of the two is a pretty good outing for sure.
By tooTALLtim From: Boulder, CO Sep 16, 2009 rating: 5.9
P2: Great pitch, too bad there's lots of bolts in the way. Easily lead with natural, removable gear (except the contrived arete ending).
Bolted finger cracks, has everyone else gone crazy? How has this not been chopped?
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