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Clean Sweep 
Face Off 
Generous Donation 
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Nick Of Time 
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Stayin' Alive 
Tag Team 
Toe The Line 
Total Eclipse 

Nick Of Time 

5.6

   

FA: Ron Olsen and Nickie Kelly, 6/8/07
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 95 feet
Views: 541 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 10, 2007


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Nickie Kelly laybacking the crux.


Description 

Nick Of Time is a fun, trad dihedral on the right side of Sport Land. Bring some big gear if you want to lead this one!

Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor just up and right from the anchor for Total Eclipse. Climb a slab past a bolt to the base of the corner. Stem, layback, and jam up the wide crack in the corner to its top on a pinnacle.

Rap 95' back to the start from a 2-bolt anchor.

If you didn't bring gear, you can toprope this route after leading Face Off (5.8 sport) or the first pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.9 sport).


Location 

On the right side of Sport Land, just right of Sidekick. Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor just up and right of the starting anchor for Total Eclipse. Route #6 in the beta photo.


Protection 

2-bolt belay anchor at the start. 1 bolt on the starting slab, then 1"-4" gear, with doubles from 3" to 4". I used a #1 Camalot, #2 Camalot, 2 #3 Camalots, a #3.5 Camalot, and a #4 Camalot to sew it up.

2-bolt anchor at the top, shared with Face Off and Stayin' Alive.



Add Photo Photos of Nick Of Time
Nickie Kelly nearing the top on the first ascent.

Nickie Kelly nearing the top on the first ascent.

Nick Of Time climbs a dihedral with a wide crack on the right side of the east face of Tonnere Tower.

BETA PHOTO: Nick Of Time climbs a dihedral with a wide crack o...

Close-up of routes in Sport Land:<br /><br />1. Toe The Line, 10b, sport.<br />2. Generous Donation, 11b, sport.<br />3. Tag Team, 11a, sport.<br />4. Total Eclipse, 10a, sport.<br />5. Sidekick, 11a, sport.<br />6. Nick Of Time, 6, trad.<br />7. Hard Times, 11c, sport.<br />8. Face Off, 8, sport.<br />9. Stayin' Alive, 10a, sport.<br />10. Clean Sweep, 9, trad.<br /><br />Close-up of routes on Treasure Wall:<br /><br />11. Tree Line, 9, sport.<br />12. Twilight Time, 10a, sport.<br />13. Bobby's Back, 10d, sport.<br />14. Buried Treasure, 9, sport.<br />15. Join The Party, 9, trad.<br />16. The Twilight Kid, 11a, sport.<br />17. Fields of Gold, 10a, mixed.<br />18. Workingman's Blues, 10, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Close-up of routes in Sport Land:

1. Toe The Line...

Routes in Sport Land:<br /><br />1. Toe The Line, 10b, sport.<br />2. Generous Donation, 11b, sport.<br />3. Tag Team, 11a, sport.<br />4. Total Eclipse, 10a, sport.<br />5. Sidekick, 11a, sport.<br />6. Nick Of Time, 6, trad.<br />7. Hard Times, 11c, sport.<br />8. Face Off, 8, sport.<br />9. Stayin' Alive, 10a, sport.<br />10. Clean Sweep, 9, trad.<br /><br />Routes on Treasure Wall:<br /><br />11. Tree Line, 9, sport.<br />12. Twilight Time, 10a, sport.<br />13. Bobby's Back, 10d, sport.<br />14. Buried Treasure, 9, sport.<br />15. Join The Party, 9, trad.<br />16. The Twilight Kid, 11a, sport.<br />17. Fields of Gold, 10a, mixed.<br />18. Workingman's Blues, 10, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Routes in Sport Land:

1. Toe The Line, 10b, sport...

Routes on the right side of the east face of Tonnere Tower.

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the right side of the east face of Tonne...


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By Tradsplatter
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2007
rating: 5.6

Climbed this nice corner line with the recommended big cams. After the gardening and beta from the FA, it probably seems not as difficult to subsequent leaders. Giving it a 5.6 rating with maybe a borderline 5.7 move at bulge. Nevertheless, it was a fun route with some nice holds throughout. Top anchors are well placed and convenient belay anchors at bottom make this a very easy, enjoyable, trad route on otherwise sporty face. Nice job, Ron!

By Split
From: Boulder
Jun 27, 2007
rating: 5.6

I agree that this is probably more like 5.6, but it may also be that it only has one move at the bulge that is harder and the rest is a lot easier. The largest cam I used was a #2 Camalot at the bulge. If you look around, there is plenty of smaller stuff if you don't want to bring bigger gear.