Bruno Haché making the transition move onto the ri...
Description
This route climbs the prominent V-dihedral high on the wall, 20 feet right of Leave No Trace.
Start from the trail, directly below the dihedral, and just left of a cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail. Climb up slabby rock steps, placing gear and passing one bolt, to the base of the steep dihedral. The climbing in this initial section is mostly easy, with perhaps one 5.6-5.7 move along the way. There are some runouts on easy ground getting to the crux dihedral.
Clip a bolt on the left wall of the dihedral and prepare for "the business". The third bolt (second bolt in the dihedral) is the crux. Move to your right on the face to avoid the sand bag in the corner on the left. High-quality technical moves with a counter-intuitive "down-move" brings you to a key sharp quartzite intrusion. The top dihedral is worth 3.5 stars but is downrated due to the easy start.
Lower from an anchor at the top of the dihedral (70 m rope required). There is no stance at this anchor; it is meant for lowering only. It might be possible to lower with a 60m rope if you scramble up to a shelf about 20' above the trail, and belay from here.
If you only have a 60m rope and want to belay from the top, continue up another 20 feet to the anchor atop the second pitch of Like a Wonk. Belay from here on a decent ledge. From this higher anchor, two rappels will get you back down. Do the first rappel to the anchor on Unknown Sport Climb/Leave No Trace. From here, rappel to the ground.
Location
This route starts about 20 feet right of Leave No Trace and just left of a big cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail. The objective is the prominent V-dihedral above and left of the cedar tree.
Protection
BEWARE: A 70 m ROPE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Green Camalot (0.75), bolt, Grey Camalot (0.4), Blue Camalot (0.3), 3 bolts, two-bolt top anchor. Long runner at the last gear placement is advisable, or unclip the last gear placement after clipping the left-wall second bolt.
Hey, don't I get any credit for the 2 days of cleaning I did on the route??
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Apr 30, 2007
Sorry, Greg. The only time I saw you up there was a month ago when you rapped down it, and said the line looked "pretty hard"; you were right.
Bruno wanted to do a FA on Sunday and I thought that a "pretty hard" line would be perfect. Didn't think you were still planning on bolting it. I'll add you to the FA. Cleaners get credit too!
Ron, just razzin you. It was too hard for me. I am amazed it went that easy.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Apr 30, 2007
Glad you're not upset, Greg. Don't want to lose another friend over some bolts!
The key to the route is to climb it on the right face, and not in the corner. Bruno and I tried going straight up the corner several times with no success. Bruno eventually figured out a sequence on the right face that worked (at least for him!). Gotta put up these hard routes when you have a rope gun for your partner!
Greg and Ron, You guys are funny about the cleaning and stuff. But I agree with Ron, cleaners should be part of the first ascent party. Cleaning is the most arduous task that a route-setter has to cope with! :) And the cleaning you had done made our job much easier on Sunday, that's for damn sure! :)
You are soooo welcome Greg as part of the first ascent party! After all, you also did some of the exploration to find this line! :) Good job Greg! Team spirit at its best! Bruno
Bruno, Good job. I knew it would be harder than my current state of devolution (I play golf 7 days a week). I tried to bring in my own hired gun, but never got one in time. I was there twice on rappel and it was an ordeal to clean with the updrafts. Opps, gotta go, time to hit the links!
The Lower Tier
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