Brenda Leach stemming on the left-hand variation t...
Description
Two new first-pitch variations added 4/18/2007.
Pitch 1a: Begin just left of Unknown Sport Climb, solo up easy rock and place a yellow & green Alien in a diagonal crack. Climb past 2 bolts (5.9) to a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 1b: Climb the line just left of pitch 1a following 3 bolts (5.9) to the same anchor.
When lowering off pitch 1a or 1b, keep the rope out of the notch between the two routes or it will shred your rope.
Pitch 2: Move right past the anchor for Unknown Sport Climb and wonk your way straight up placing the gear until the bolts are reached. Crux (5.8) is the short traverse right at the 2nd bolt.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Apr 30, 2007 rating: 5.9
The left-hand variation on the first pitch has some fun moves on steep rock. The easiest climbing line is about 5' left of the third bolt, with a traverse right somewhat above the bolt. At the anchor, I traversed right to the anchor atop Unknown Sport Climb, and belayed from here. This puts you more in line with the second pitch.
My partner led the second pitch. He did not place any pro and just clipped the three bolts on this pitch. The easiest climbing line is about 6' left of the second bolt, with a traverse right somewhat above the bolt. One more clip takes you to the anchor on a decent ledge.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Nov 10, 2007 rating: 5.9
The right-hand variation on the first pitch felt more like 5.9+ to 5.10a; harder than the left-hand variation for sure. My partner led the pitch, and clipped the first bolt on the left-hand variation before moving right and up. He must have missed the green and yellow Alien placements, because it seemed as if the pitch could use another bolt at the start of the difficulties.
On the second pitch, it's possible to traverse right at the second bolt via a big stem and a reach far to the right, but it seemed harder than 5.8, and would be even more difficult for a shorter person.
The Lower Tier
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