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Like a Wonk 

5.9

   

FA: Greg Hand, Kent Lugbill & Dan Brockway 4/10/2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 120 feet
Views: 607 page views

Submitted By: Greg Hand on Apr 17, 2007


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Left variation. Photo by Lenny Miller.


Description 

Two new first-pitch variations added 4/18/2007.

Pitch 1a: Begin just left of Botonga, solo up easy rock and place a yellow & green Alien in a diagonal crack. Climb past 2 bolts (5.9) to a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 1b: Climb the line just left of pitch 1a following 3 bolts (5.9) to the same anchor.

When lowering off pitch 1a or 1b, keep the rope out of the notch between the two routes or it will shred your rope.

Pitch 2: Move right past the anchor for Botonga and wonk your way straight up placing the gear until the bolts are reached. Crux (5.8) is the short traverse right at the 2nd bolt.


Location 

Begins just left of Botonga.


Protection 

0.75 Camalot, red, yellow, green Aliens.
2-bolt anchors atop each pitch.



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Right variation.

Right variation.


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By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Nov 10, 2007

The green & yellow Alien placements are down and right of the first bolt in a left-angling crack. They should be fairly obvious and very good.

By rob bauer
Oct 2, 2009
rating: 5.9+

With belly to the bolts, the left hand variation felt fairly hard (.10c?) to me; I'm 5'8" and I hung, [but avoided the crack to the left]. I was expecting easier....