Kent Lugbill beginning the crack at the top of Too...
Description
Follow 3 bolts on well-featured rock to a ledge that leads to a finishing crack that is easy to protect. Nice moderate climb with chicken heads and flakes. Easy-to-protect crack for the learning trad leader.
Location
On a buttress on the left side of the Bihedral area, 15 feet left of Edge of Reality.
Protection
3 bolts plus yellow & red Aliens, 1.5 Friend, optional small wire, to a 2-bolt anchor.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Mar 26, 2007 rating: 5.8
A fun moderate route. The initial face moves and finishing crack are excellent; too bad it's not longer. I protected the crack with a yellow Alien, red Alien, and green .75 Camalot.
The best approach from the main Bihedral area is an easy but exposed traverse on a narrow ledge that crosses just below the first bolt on Dan's Line. Put on your rock shoes and only take over what you're taking up the climb. Beginners may want a belay, but there's no pro on the traverse other than the bolt on Dan's Line.
A safe approach/descent with no exposure can be made by coming up from The Left Side, but this is a long distance away from the main Bihedral area.
By Bob D'Antonio From: Superior, CO Jan 12, 2008 rating: 5.8
This is a nice moderate route on good stone. Nicely bolted at the start and great gear for the crack.
The Bihedral
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