From mid-May through October, the hillside below the left side of Boulder Slips is covered in poison ivy. It is difficult to avoid no matter how you approach the climbs. Better to climb somewhere else during this time. Routes on the center and right side of Boulder Slips are not affected.
From November to early May, the poison ivy is dormant, but watch out for the plants with little light-green berries -- these are poison ivy bushes. Avoid them and you should be OK to climb on the left side of Boulder Slips at those times.
BETA PHOTO: The Throttle. Scramble up left to a ramp. Climb ...
Description
"The Throttle" climbs a water streak up the steep face left of the arete of The Threshold and My Way. It's harder than the guidebook rating of 5.10 and the protection is very poor. Another route to top-rope from the anchor on My Way (with a directional piece or two near the top of the pitch).
Start about 30' down and left of the My Way arete below a black water streak. There is a bowl about 30' up that you're shooting for. Climb up to a ramp left of the water streak. Ascend a yellow pillar (5.10 layback and stem) to a stance at its top. Step onto a spike of rock and work right to a little bowl and a black water streak. This move is very difficult; at least 5.11 with no pro. The spike of rock has a broken top; maybe the move was easier 20 years ago. Continue up the water streak and veer right at the top to the anchor on My Way. Lower or rappel 95' back down.
Location
On the right side of the Boulder Slips crag, below a black water streak, about 30' left of My Way. See the beta photo.
Protection
Not much. Best to top-rope from the anchor on My Way. Place a directional anchor or two near the top of the pitch, since the start is well left of the My Way anchor.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
