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Boulder Slips
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Boulder Slips 
Brand New Bosch 
Colorado Senior Open 
Edges and Ledges 
Family Guy 
Giggity-Giggity 
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Minutia Arete 
My Way 
Party Time! 
Pumpkin Corner 
Ride, The 
Same As It Ever Was 
Sunlight Arete 
Threshold Variation 
Threshold, The 
Throttle, The 
Where's Bob? 

Threshold Variation 

5.9+ R

   

FA: Randy Leavitt and Dan Hare, 1981
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 85 feet
Views: 185 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 26, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Threshold Variation. Climb to the top of the pill...


Description 

This is a variation to the route "The Threshold" that avoids the difficult and poorly-protected 5.11 start. The pro on this variation isn't that great, so it's best top-roped from the anchors on My Way.

Start about 15' left of My Way/Boulder Slips at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. Climb the corner (or come in from the left) and move up right to a stance at the top of a pillar. "The Threshold" climbs out left from here, with some poorly-protected 5.11 face moves to gain an angling hand crack. Instead, step up on the right side of the arete (same as My Way) and then traverse left onto the arete as soon as possible. Move left to a small ledge below a steep face. Climb up the face (5.9 or 9+, poor pro). Move left and continue up the face and intermittent cracks about 10' left of My Way. At the top, angle right to the anchor on My Way. Rappel or lower 85' back down.


Location 

On the right side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 15' left of My Way, at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. See the Boulder Slips route overview photo.


Protection 

Not that great. I haven't led this variation, and wouldn't recommend doing so unless you're solid on runout 5.9. Best to top-rope from the anchor on My Way.



Add Photo Photos of Threshold Variation
Boulder Slips Route Overview<br /><br />1. Edges and Ledges, 8, 8 bolts<br />2. Brand New Bosch, 9, 6 bolts<br />3. Party Time!, 9, 5 bolts & gear to 3.5"<br />4. Minutia, 8, gear to 3"<br />5. Minutia Arete, 9+, TR<br />6. Pumpkin Corner, 9, gear to 2"<br />7. La Lune, 12d, 5 bolts<br />8. Sunlight Arete, 10b, 5 bolts<br />9. The Throttle, 11 R, TR<br />10. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, TR<br />11. My Way, 9, 4 bolts & gear to 2"<br />12. Boulder Slips, 9 R, gear to 2"<br />13. Where's Bob?, 10, 5 bolts & 2 green Camalots<br />14. The Ride, 10b, 5 bolts & gear to 2"

BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview

1. Edges and Ledges,...