Update: As of mid November, 2007, the poison ivy has gone dormant. Watch out for plants with little berries; these are poison ivy bushes. Stay away from them and you should be fine to climb here.
I climbed here again on 3/1/08; the poison ivy is still dormant. It should be fine to climb on the left side of the crag from now until mid-May.
From mid-May through October, the hillside below the left side of Boulder Slips is covered in poison ivy. It is difficult to avoid no matter how you approach the climbs. Better to climb somewhere else during this time. Routes on the center and right side of Boulder Slips are not affected.
BETA PHOTO: Threshold Variation. Climb to the top of the pill...
Description
This is a variation to the route "The Threshold" that avoids the difficult and poorly-protected 5.11 start. The pro on this variation isn't that great, so it's best top-roped from the anchors on My Way.
Start about 15' left of My Way/Boulder Slips at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. Climb the corner (or come in from the left) and move up right to a stance at the top of a pillar. "The Threshold" climbs out left from here, with some poorly-protected 5.11 face moves to gain an angling hand crack. Instead, step up on the right side of the arete (same as My Way) and then traverse left onto the arete as soon as possible. Move left to a small ledge below a steep face. Climb up the face (5.9 or 9+, poor pro). Move left and continue up the face and intermittent cracks about 10' left of My Way. At the top, angle right to the anchor on My Way. Rappel or lower 85' back down.
Location
On the right side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 15' left of My Way, at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. See the Boulder Slips route overview photo.
Protection
Not that great. I haven't led this variation, and wouldn't recommend doing so unless you're solid on runout 5.9. Best to top-rope from the anchor on My Way.