Update: As of mid November, 2007, the poison ivy has gone dormant. Watch out for plants with little berries; these are poison ivy bushes. Stay away from them and you should be fine to climb here.
I climbed here again on 3/1/08; the poison ivy is still dormant. It should be fine to climb on the left side of the crag from now until mid-May.
From mid-May through October, the hillside below the left side of Boulder Slips is covered in poison ivy. It is difficult to avoid no matter how you approach the climbs. Better to climb somewhere else during this time. Routes on the center and right side of Boulder Slips are not affected.
Bruno Haché moving right into the finger crack.
Description
Nine climbers and two dogs at Boulder Slips on Sunday 10/15/06; it was Party Time!
This route has a nice mix of climbing: corner, arete, finger crack, and hand/fist crack. It lies halfway between Brand New Bosch and Minutia on the left side of Boulder Slips.
Start at the base of the slab where Edges and Ledges, Brand New Bosch, and Minutia also start. Climb up broken rock to a right-facing corner between Brand New Bosch and Minutia. Climb the corner past two bolts to a nice ledge (shared with Brand New Bosch). Step right and continue up a right-facing corner and arete past three more bolts to a finger crack. Place a medium wired nut, move up, and place a red Alien or #0.5 purple Camalot. Climb the finger crack to a ledge, then climb a short hand and fist crack in a right-facing corner to the anchors (#2, #3 Camalots, optional #4 Camalot).
Clip the lowering hooks out on the face to the right, and lower 95' back down.
The route can be a little easier (8) or a little harder (9+/10a) depending on how soon you commit to the finger cracks and face midway up.
Location
On the left side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 100' above the road, at the base of a broken slab. Same start as for Edges and Ledges, Brand New Bosch, and Minutia.
Protection
5 bolts plus 4-5 gear placements to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Medium wired nut, #0.5, #2, #3 Camalots; optional #4 Camalot.
Really just one 5.9 move - from the last bolt your move from the easy wide crack to the face, which is a bit delicate. A single 5.8 move at the top wide crack (just below the anchor) is also interesting (blue #3 Camalot - don't bother with the #4). Otherwise easy and unremarkable climbing.
Recommend belaying to the far left (as you would for Edges and Ledges). A bowling ball size rock came loose from the upper ledge and landed on the belay ledge directly in line with the route. Luckily we were too lazy to move our belay from where we started. Fun route otherwise!
Edit: If you do belay on the left, move right when pulling your rope to avoid snagging it on a stubborn feature to the right of the first bolt.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Mar 2, 2008
On 11/5/07, I cleared a bunch of loose rocks from the ledge near the top of the route. I climbed the route on 3/1/08, and didn't find any major loose rock hazards. It should be OK to belay more in line with the route.
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