Update: As of mid November, 2007, the poison ivy has gone dormant. Watch out for plants with little berries; these are poison ivy bushes. Stay away from them and you should be fine to climb here.
I climbed here again on 3/1/08; the poison ivy is still dormant. It should be fine to climb on the left side of the crag from now until mid-May.
From mid-May through October, the hillside below the left side of Boulder Slips is covered in poison ivy. It is difficult to avoid no matter how you approach the climbs. Better to climb somewhere else during this time. Routes on the center and right side of Boulder Slips are not affected.
BETA PHOTO: Minutia, a fabulous 5.8 crack and corner on the le...
Description
This is one of the best moderate crack climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon: steep, sustained, and elegant. The broken rock at the start, and the vibrating flake near the top keep it from 4-star status, but it is still a very good climb.
Walk west on the gravel pullout to the left side of the Boulder Slips formation. Hike up a path to the base of a broken slab. The striking hand crack of Minutia can be seen about 40' above.
Climb up easy broken rock to the base of the crack. The fun starts here and doesn't end until you're at the belay. Jam and stem up the beautiful, steep hand crack to a ledge. Step right, and climb a short dihedral. Watch out for a vibrating flake near the top of the route; best to avoid using the tempting jug at its top.
Clip the lowering hooks and lower 100' from a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the dihedral. It's also possible to belay from the top if you wish.
Location
On the left side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 100' above the road.
Protection
Hand-sized cams. I sewed it up with a yellow Alien, 2 #0.75 Camalots, 2 #1 Camalots, 2 #2 Camalots, and 2 #3 Camalots; bolder leaders can get by with less. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks at the top. Lower 100' from here.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Oct 30, 2006
4 star handcrack in BC gets one's attention...okay climb, best bit is about 20' in the middle (a bit funky to get into this bit). From a clucker: a set of cams to #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend), #9 hex, & wires worked. Funky block(s) just below the anchor makes you think 'ard about pullin' on it. Not quite as good as North Face Center, Cob Rock.
A very nice climb, takes great gear and great practice for leading cracks. A bit sustained in places, it is no gimme. A climb well worth doing. You may wish to consider doubling up on #1 and #2 Camalots to really feel good.
What piece of s***, This might be an awesome climb if the rock was SOLID. I read the description and was excited to go try it (I love cracks)... what a disappointment. The only good part is about 10 feet of climbing in the middle...the bottom and top are complete choss. I guess they call this Boulder Slips cause the whole formation appears to be slipping off the hillside. Don't waste your time with this climb.
Awesome climbing that would be solid 4 stars if it was longer and didn't have the chossy start to get to the crack. The loose rock others mentioned is either gone or trivial to avoid. Easy pro and really fun moves the whole way up.
I found that for a crack climb in this grade, it is a classic. The block mentioned by Brenda has been taken down late October 2006, early November 2006. Be aware that this line is at a junction between two rock walls. It is no surprise that there is some freeze/thaw stuff on this route.
I really enjoyed the jamming on this climb but felt very uncomfortable pulling on the block just below the chains. It sounds like there was an even looser one here. Anyway, if you use less optimum holds/jams around it you can minimize the pull force on the block.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Mar 2, 2008
I climbed the route again on 3/1/08. I found some small loose rocks near the start of the crack, which I plan to trundle when the crag is less crowded.
There is a big flake near the top of the route that vibrates when you tap on it, but it appears to be firmly anchored in the surrounding rock. You can get a good #1 Camalot in an overlap to the right, and avoid using the top of the flake as a handhold, without increasing the difficulty of the climb.
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