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Eagle Rock
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To The Sun 

To The Sun 

5.5

   

FA: Richard Rossiter and Lynn Householder 1979
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 300 feet
Season: August-February
Views: 219 page views

Submitted By: Jared Workman on Oct 1, 2006


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This area is closed for raptor nesting from February 1, 2006 through July 31, 2006.

Description 

A buddy of mine and I headed up to do the Dihedral Route on Eagle Rock, since someone was already on their way up we figured first come first serve and headed towards this route.

Scramble up another 30-50 feet from the base of the Great Dihedral and set a belay when it becomes obvious that the climbing is 5th class. From here you can either traverse right for 20 or so feet to a tree and then head up the obvious buttress (5.5) or head straight up through some roofs (5.6-5.7) before gaining the obvious buttress on Eagle rock.

Climb up 150-200 feet and set a belay on any of a number of large ledges when you feel like it. From here, head to the top of Eagle Rock.

You can scramble 100 or so feet to climbers left and do a series of rappels from bolts on the Dihedral route to escape.


Protection 

Standard rack, nothing to big or small.



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By Jared Workman
From: Boulder
Oct 1, 2006

I'm not sure is this is standard or not, but I posted this route to let people know to skip it. The climbing was dull, unaesthetic, and quite dirty. We found a bouldering move on the route to add to the spice up top (v1 or v2?), but other than that, this route is pretty boring.

If you are a new leader, make sure to take the traverse under the roofs towards the obvious tree before heading up. It might be a good first lead, and the views up top are nice, but otherwise steer clear.