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Sword In The Stone 

5.9+

   

FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Ron Olsen, 9/20/06
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 1,205 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 21, 2006


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Bruce Hildenbrand moving onto the arete on the fir...


Description 

Sword In The Stone is a cool new sport route on the First Tier of Avalon. It climbs the face and knife-edge arete left of Mists of Avalon.

Start 25' left of Mists of Avalon, below some broken slabs with loose rock. Scramble up the slabs to a ledge below a small overhang. Climb up and left past three bolts (cracked horizontal hold in here) and several small overhangs to a stance at the base of the arete. Work up the knife-edge arete (crux) past three more bolts to a bulge. Clip a final bolt and cruise to the anchor.


Location 

On the First Tier of Avalon, 25' left of Mists of Avalon, below a knife-edge arete.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. All bolts were drilled by hand by "Bosch-less Bruce".



Photos of Sword In The Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Sword In The Stone.  Climb up and left past several small overhangs to the arete. Climb up the knife edge arete and pass a final bulge to the anchor.

BETA PHOTO: Sword In The Stone. Climb up and left past severa...

Sword In The Stone and The Mists of Avalon, as seen from the road.

BETA PHOTO: Sword In The Stone and The Mists of Avalon, as see...

A close-up of the knife-edge arete.

BETA PHOTO: A close-up of the knife-edge arete.

View from the trail at the start of the route.

BETA PHOTO: View from the trail at the start of the route.

Bruce Hildenbrand cranking the fun moves past the second bolt.

Bruce Hildenbrand cranking the fun moves past the ...

Ron Olsen stepping up to a great horizontal edge at the start of the arete.<br /><br />Photo by Bruce Hildenbrand.

Ron Olsen stepping up to a great horizontal edge a...

Sword In The Stone

Sword In The Stone

Peter Dillon at the crux on the arete.

Peter Dillon at the crux on the arete.

Glory!

Glory!


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By Ryan M
From: Broomfield, CO
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.9+

It was definitely fun, awkward, but fun.

It requires some weird moves, but if climbed correctly it can make it easier.

The back side of the arete is really crappy, but it gets the job done.