This route is described in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook and noted in his excellent topos on p.183 & in Boulder Climbs North on p. 119. Its depicted 2 bolts has led to some consternation by those seeking to just climb until you see them...as we did on our first run up Cosmosis, years ago. So, this entry is listed for clarification & warning. It's best to TR the pitch. Don't expect a soft 10a either. Funky rock. Sketchy, if any, gear. Maybe Dan was pretty smart....
Location
This is the climb on the arete near the 3rd pitch of Cosmosis near the top of Bell Buttress.
Protection
No bolts. RPs and TCUs, I've heard, hmmm. TR for mortals like me.
Beware about a cool looking variation to the last pitch of Cosmosis, called in Rossiter "The Route that Dan Missed". Despite what Rossiter's topo would lead one to believe, THERE ARE NO BOLTS on this arete variation, making it 5.10R/X. Anybody know the history on this? My info is from a few years ago, so it's possible the bolts are there now, but check for them before launching blindly into the lead.
"The beautiful bolted arete". Yeah, right. Sorta' oxymoronic, eh?
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Apr 16, 2002 rating: 5.10 R
I did the "Route That Dan Missed" arete to the left and concur that the route is NOT bolted and is R/X and has some (*gulp*) questionable holds.
The aforementioned variation is dangerous and has a great deal of objective hazard. This would be an unwise lead for a climber who is not very solid on 5.10 (as in, couldn't skip the questionable holds).
My friend Marc Gay and I did the FA of "The Route That Dan Missed" a long time ago (late '80s?). Of course, there are no bolts on it, although the guide shows bolts. It is 5.10 R+. There is quite a lot of unprotected 5.9 above the initial crux. I've thought of adding bolts recently and certainly wouldn't mind seeing it made safer. If memory serves, it is a good pitch that makes a nice finish to Cosmosis. If there are no objections, I will try to find the time to retro-bolt it, or I'll consider it open to anyone else so inclined.
Mark, with all due repsect, please do not retro-bolt this line. It is one of the few climbs of it's grade in Boulder Canyon with good climbing and a spicy runout. There are plenty of bolted 5.10s to do elsewhere in the canyon. Thank you.
OBJECTION, OBJECTION!! My partner and I sought this route (The Route That Dan Missed) for the exact qualities bolts would extinguish, including "connect the dot". Not all routes are for all people. Puhhhlease leave it as-is! What does Marc say about the retro-bolt idea? He'd probably want to remove any fixed RPs (if any exist)!
The route's name and significance have come to represent a poignant reminder of old-school climbing that stands, proud and comfortable, in sharp contrast to the numerous bolted routes in Boulder Canyon.
Give us the story; head-point or ground-up? Hats-off to the first one up this stretch of rock.
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