Through the boulder problem crux on Mile High Comi...
Description
On the upper part of East Blob, immediately to the left of The Enlightenment. The route starts off a pedestal. The crux is the first 15 feet, and involves a really painful and hard to use thumbs down left hand fingerlock, followed by a big pull to a great lock. From here, you can throw in a great piece, and work a short thin hands/fingers section to a jug on the face. Maybe 15-20 feet of sinker hand jams from here leads to a huge horn and the (kinda balancey and spooky) finish. A great route with hard moves and good pro. It's a good thing most 12cs aren't this hard, though; this beast will never be downrated.
Protection
Small stoppers and #0-1 Metolius sew up the crux, then a .5 or .75 for the thin hands section. Bring a #1 and #2 Camalot for the hands finish, and a sling for the horn at the top. Also, I found taping your cuticles allows you to put in more attempts.
Ron Olsen, Dale Haas and I removed all the tat at the anchor on top of this climb. I drilled a new 3/8" Rawl SS bolt and added chains and links to work with the existing pin and bolt swaged cable anchor.
The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
One of the best sandbags in Boulder at 5.12a. I first did this 1981 and felt it was way hard for the grade. Somewhat painful finger locks lead to good thin hands to good hand jams and the anchor.
Super good crack, although I don't know about it being a very sandbagged grade. I think it feels about 12a, but who cares about the grade all that matters in reality is that it is very enloyable? Except for maybe the first lock, it doesn't treat the fingers too well.
Upper East Face
RSS Feed
