This position is a bit stressful. You need to eith...
Description
This route is being posted under an assumed name. In fact, I am certain it has been climbed before, as there were some "signs of life" along the way, not to mention the mere probabilistic notion. I found a trace of chalk up under a big undercling at the bottom of the first overhang. I can not find any prior reference to its existence, so I am listing it as a 'new route' to make it easy to 'find' and publish in guidebook revisions.
To climb this route, head up to the Dome and right, as for Cozyhang. Climb up the face to the left of the East Slab and perhaps 1-2 meters right of the start of Cozyhang, passing a easy but runout slab to catch a thin fingercrack below the center of a bulging set of small, rounded, black grooves. Place gear in the fingercrack and head up into the roofs, underclinging and reaching upwards to hidden jugs for progress. A ledge is found after the roofs, but instead of belaying here, head up and just slightly left to intercept the small but secure pockets and edges on "East of the Sun" to complete on a great face line. Continue on this past 2 diagonal cracks (#1 Camalot in one of them) and to the summit finish as for East Of The Sun.
This is a 2* route that an advanced leader can protect very well. It may require the power to hang out in the crux to place said gear, and so it is not recommended for aspiring 5.9 leaders.
Protection
A standard rack of stoppers and cams. Small tricams could be used.
This route has been done before, mainly soloed, it probably was not listed anywhere due to it being short and that it would end up exiting an already existing line.
Thumbs up to anyone who would solo this. As for the line being short, it seems to climb a full pitch of independent territory, which is more than I can say for most "variation" routes. As previously stated, since it has obviously been done- historically, I was surprised it was not documented.
Nice climb with a fun stemming overhange with big square crystal jugs. This combined with the East of the Sun slab would be the logical line, but since we'd just done East of the Sun, we finished with the crack right of East Slab.
The "sign of life" I encountered was a territorial wasp who lives in a finger lock crack (yellow Metolius) at the lip. There's enough room for the cam, and two fingers underneath, but not for all that and the wasp. Got a nasty sting hanging out at the lip. Maybe do this route in cold weather when the little bastard is napping.
The Dome
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