Magie Noire 

FA:  Bruno Haché, Pebby Johns New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Season:  Summer AM, late PM Views: 478 page views Submitted By: Bruno Hache on Aug 23, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The route with the rope and quickdraws in place.

Description 

The start is bouldery in nature. Although rock quality is questionable, this route offers nice powerful and sustained face moves all the way up to the crux at 4th and 5th bolt. Worth 3 stars but deserves only 2 stars due to rock quality. Body positioning and precise slopy smearing is key to a successful ascent.

Location 

Walk west after the Nip and Tuck pull out, walk across the guard rail on your right, pass the El Barrio boulder cave, then go up the short loose talus. This is the Stepping Stones crag. Past the Quebec Connection dihedral, Magie Noire is the obvious black streak on the left, at the right edge of the pile of overhanging stacked blocks.

Protection 

7 bolts and a top anchor.

Photos of Magie Noire Slideshow

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Pebby approaching the crux moves.	Bruno installing the 3rd bolt.	Mica, Bruno's fathful & loyal companion, taking a ...