BETA PHOTO: Twin Peaks and Glennevere. Twin Peaks is the left...
Description
This is a new sport line just around the corner to the left of The Memory of Trees and right of Dark Tower. It is the left of two lines on this steeper buttress, and starts in the same spot as Glennevere, the route to its right. It looks harder than it is, too.
Climb an easy slab to a right-facing flake with a wide crack behind it. Ascend the flake past 2 bolts. Move up to a steeper face with an obvious undercling. Get situated on smaller face holds above this. Find a first crux here where you stretch (for those 5'10" and shorter) up and right to a left-facing flake and walk your feet up. Move up, catch a breath. Find a thin, balancy finish (2nd crux) up and left without a finishing "jug" to the anchors.
One more I did yesterday. Leo and I again agree on the grade, as I would have guessed 10b for a modern sport grade.
This route was only slightly better than its neighbor. There was a section from about 1/2 way up (starting with the undercling) to about 10' from the top that had some redeeming qualities, but all in all the route was poor.
Found it quite awkward at the anchor, no good stance! There is a pretty nice crack a few feet to the left of the route for the second half if one wants to take an easier detour.
Bummed the anchor was moved, but I am at least glad it was done by the FA crew. The logical route now seems the left line, which removes the route's second crux and perhaps downgrades the route. Perhaps, you just didn't have time, but it seems lame to leave the old bolts. They should be chopped and the holes should be covered if you're going to make the change. Clipping was exciting and fine from the old location.
The Watermark
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