Joan Johns cleaning in the rain, Twin Cracks Right...
Description
Twin Cracks Right (and Twin Cracks Left) begins with the first half of Twin Peaks and goes right into a separate crack system at the undercling (where the other goes left). The crux is somewhere along the crack (you decide). The crack itself is solid rock, mostly fingers. Recommend: skip the bolt just beneath the undercling and place pro out right (where you are going anyway). A steep finger crack then leads to a low-angle, V-shaped dihedral. Step right and lower off from the anchors for Glennevere.
Location
This route begins with Twin Peaks and branches right at the undercling.
Protection
QDs for 3 bolts plus gear up to 3 inches. Lower off from the 2-bolt anchor for Glennevere.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Oct 2, 2006 rating: 5.9
A short but fun crack. I clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before stepping right. Be sure to place directional pro at the top of the crack for your second before moving right to the anchor on Glennevere. It's best for the leader to lower off and have the second follow and clean the pitch, since it would be hard to clean while lowering or rappeling due to the slanting nature of the climb.
By percious From: Arvada, CO May 31, 2008 rating: 5.8
The entire climb can be safely lead without the bolts. The bottom section is easily protected with a large cam for the starting flake (3 or 4) and a yellow and blue Metolius. The crux is well-protected, even if the moves are a bit awkward.
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