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Twin Peaks 

Twin Cracks Left 

5.9+

   

FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, August 2006
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 85 feet
Season: All
Views: 580 page views

Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 18, 2006


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RR coming back up the crack after 4 hours of truly...


Description 

Twin Cracks Left (and Twin Cracks Right) begins with the first half of Twin Peaks and goes left into a separate crack system at the undercling (where the other goes right). The crux is somewhere along the crack (you decide). The crack itself is solid rock, mostly hands and fingers. Recommend: skip the bolt just beneath the undercling and place pro out left (where you are going anyway).


Location 

This route begins with Twin Peaks and branches left at the undercling.


Protection 

QDs for 3 bolts plus gear up to 3 inches. Climb to a great ledge at the top of the crack. There is no fixed anchor, but two finger-sized cracks 4 feet above the ledge provide excellent gear anchors. Belay up your partner and walk off...or rappel 100 feet from a tree just south of the belay ledge. This tree has no slings and rings at time of writing.



Photos of Twin Cracks Left Slideshow Add Photo
The route maker's tools of the trade.

The route maker's tools of the trade.

Routes on the left side of The Watermark.

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of The Watermark.

Peter Dillon working up the crack.

Peter Dillon working up the crack.

Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermark, showing bolt locations.

BETA PHOTO: Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermar...


Comments on Twin Cracks Left Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 2, 2006
rating: 5.9

Longer and more varied than Twin Cracks Right. My partner clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before moving left. Fun moves up the crack and arete. Near the top of the crack, he angled right to the anchor on Twin Peaks and lowered from there. I followed and cleaned the pitch. I think many people will do the climb this way instead of continuing up to the ledge and building a gear anchor.

By percious
From: Arvada, CO
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.9-

Clipping the 3 bolts is not required for this climb. A yellow and blue Metolius as well as a large (3 or 4) sized cam protect the lower section.