RR going for gear on the FA of Crack Love II. Pho...
Description
The Sequel. This route begins 8 feet right of the obvious V-slot of Crack Love. Hike up a short ramp, then climb a finger and hand crack straight up to a roof. Pull the roof via hand jams and continue up a widening, slightly flared crack to the top. It is not very difficult, but it is a real crack climb on excellent rock.
Location
Crack Love II is the penultimate route on the upper left Northeast Face of Avalon. It begins a few feet right of the obvious V-slot of Crack Love and perhaps 80 feet up and left from The Art of War.
Protection
Gear only from 0.5 inch to 3.5 inches. 2 bolt anchor with rings at the top. Lower off 75'.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jun 26, 2006 rating: 5.9
Another fun crack climb; a little wider than Crack Love, but just about as hard. Turning the roof into the wide crack near the top was the hardest spot. Seemed like 5.9 by Boulder Canyon trad standards.
I sewed it up with a #11 BD Stopper, blue tricam, green and yellow Aliens, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot, and 2 #4 Camalots.
There was a tree with two slings and a locking biner at the top; I didn't see a 2-bolt anchor.
A 2-bolt ring anchor is now in {as of 7-10-06) at the top of Crack Love II. The anchor also serves the finish to Crack Love III, a few feet to the left. A good stance affords easy threading. Lower off, 75 feet.
Crack Land
RSS Feed
