The Daily Grind 

5.11? Really hard slab moves over the roof. Is there a secret?

A very good route. 10b/c felt right to me. Pretty continuous slab climbing between the 5th and 7th bolt. Just gotta trust that nub with your right foot at the crux. Bob, just curious, why did you switch hangers?

Good beta, Ken. You really have to rock over on right foot and layback the thin seam. Ken, I ran-out of Trango hangers. Had to order more. I hope that anwsers your question?

Felt thin for 10b/c, but then again I'm a little out of shape for face climbing.

The extension is "Caffeine Buzz," which is in the database.

I thought the route was at least 10c. Maybe I didn't approach it right, but I had a tough time with the moves on the thin face above the overlap.

Definitely 10+ if you go straight up at the mini roof. At 6.4 I can just about reach anything, but pulling that highstep with the seam layback was pretty thin for mid 10.

We thought this and Smell the Coffee were a bit forced (also climbed Snooze Button and thought the same thing). There are definitely some cool features on each route, but linking these features within a suggested rating and trying to climb the route the way the first-ascensionists envisioned felt pretty contrived.

I have a beef with routes where a much easier variation can be had by climbing within a wingspan or so of the intended line. Why put in a 10+ sport climb in 10- territory? Such is the nature of sport climbing, I suppose.

Oops, didn't mean to rant. This was my first sport climbing visit to Boulder Canyon, and ended up feeling a bit cheated. Perhaps we'll pick a different cliff next time.

I also thought the crux move at the overlap was hard. Maybe 10+ or harder. The move might favor shorter climbers.

Felt like a 10d. That crux is pretty hard to move past.

For a nice warm up (if 5.10 is hard you that is): climb the first 4 bolts of The Daily Grind, then at the small overhang before the route gets thin along that little seam - traverse left up and over the overhang and finish on Smell the Coffee. This I thought was a decent 5.9 climb as you avoid the crux moves of both routes. Even with normal draws I didn't feel much rope drag as the two bolt lines are pretty close. You can call it Grind the Coffee or something...