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Crack Love 

5.10a

   

FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Season: Not Winter
Views: 530 page views

Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jun 19, 2006


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Richard Rossiter on the first ascent of Crack Love...


Description 

This is an excellent crack climb that begins about 75 feet up and left from THE ART OF WAR. Climb a V-slot and a good hand crack to a roof. Work left to a perfect hand crack and climb to second roof. Place gear, pull the roof (crux) and cruise to a stance beneath a tree with slings and 2 carabiners. Lower off.


Location 

Crack Love begins about 75 feet up and left from THE ART OF WAR. From the bottom of ART, follow the trail, hike up the talus 50 feet, then follow the trail up and right toward the NE Face. The route is obvious as you draw near the wall. Look for a clean V-slot above granite steps followed by a hand crack.


Protection 

Bring gear from 0.5 inch to 4 inches.



Add Photo Photos of Crack Love
RR at the first roof.

RR at the first roof.

Crack Love and Crack Love II from below.

BETA PHOTO: Crack Love and Crack Love II from below.

Crack Love.  Climb a V-slot, then a handcrack to a roof.  Make an airy traverse left, and climb up to another roof. Surmount that and continue to the top.

BETA PHOTO: Crack Love. Climb a V-slot, then a handcrack to a...

Marga Powell making the airy step left under the lower roof.

Marga Powell making the airy step left under the l...

Marga Powell at the second roof.  The crux is getting stood up where her right hand is.

Marga Powell at the second roof. The crux is gett...


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By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2006
rating: 5.9

An excellent crack climb. The step left under the first roof is airy and fun; watch out for some loose chockstones in the wide crack under the roof. Getting into the V-slot above the second roof was the hardest move; it seemed about 5.9 by Boulder Canyon trad standards.

At the top, I lowered off two slings and two biners around a tree. The rope is likely to get caught in the finger crack at the second roof if you do this.

I sewed it up with the following pro: small and large wired nuts (#4 and #12 BD Stoppers), pink tricam, green Alien, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 2 #2 Camalots, #3 Camalot, and #4 Camalot.

Kudos to Richard and Pebby for all the hard work it took to clean the route, remove loose rock, and build a platform at the base of the climb.

By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2007

I agree with Ron's 5.9 rating; you can skip the #4 Camalot w/o compromising your safety. Also be careful about some loose rocks in the first roof (or yard on them like I did).