Ron Olsen contemplating the wide crack section on ...
Description
There was not a particular crux, unless it was the more physical moves off of solid hand-jams. Good crack technique helps, I suppose.
This climb is fairly long for Avalon and has pretty good moves. I'll give it 2 stars now, but I bet it will clean up to get 3. This route required very extensive cleaning, done By Richard, Pebby, and Bruno. Due to the extensive cleaning that was done, little rubble remains, but there is plenty of dirt on the route that has yet to settle- if you do it soon, assist by taking a brush and cleaning on your way back down.
Location
This route is on the left face of the third tier (NE aspect) of the cliff, practically reaching Wizard Rock. It is just right of The Art Of War.
To approach it, hike past the Wall of The Goddess and continue around the corner to the east, passing Charon's Boat/Merlin's Enigma. Go along the cliff, heading to Wizard Rock, for another 100 Meters. The trail becomes soft and steep near this climb. Look up the rock to see a primarily left-facing and left-leaning hand-to-fist crack on the upper half. There is a large tree above the route with a sling anchor.
Protection
A standard trad rack with extra pieces in the 3-4" range. The anchor up top is presently a single sling with 2 biners on the tree. In time this will need to be beefed up. I'd add a second sling and a rapid link in favor of the biners, but I was up there without any before I knew what was needed.
THUS US is a good crack climb a few feet right of the obvious chimney THE ENEMY WITHIN. This route required extensive cleaning and has no bolts at all. Begin from the obvious slot at the bottom of ENEMY. Step right after a few feet and keep going straight up. Gear requirements: 0.5 inches to 4 inches. Aliens and Camalots. No other nuts are needed. Hands, fists and arm bars. Lower off 75 feet from a tree at the top.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jun 16, 2006 rating: 5.9
A good crack climb. I used four big cams (1 #3, 1 #3.5, and 2 #4 Camalots) and two #2 Camalots, and was glad to have them; bolder leaders can get by with less.
My partner added a second sling and rap rings to the anchor at the tree atop the climb. There is also a new 2-bolt anchor not far up and right of the tree.
FYI. There is a new 2-ring-bolt anchor at the top left of the ENEMY WITHIN as of 2 July 2007. This anchor has a very good stance and serves the finish to THUS US as well.
Crack Land
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