BETA PHOTO: Pillar. The route climbs climbs a right-facing co...
Description
Pillar is a short route that starts at the same platform as Dihedral One and Common Denominator. It climbs a corner on the left side of a prominent pillar that lies to the left (north) of these routes.
Climb up flakes and cracks and step right to a right-facing corner. Climb the corner, clip a bolt, and step up right to the 2-bolt anchor.
Some fun moves, but lots of lichen since the route has seen little traffic. Barely gets one star.
Protection
Gear to 2" and one bolt to a 2-bolt anchor. Edit: The bolt and anchor have been removed -- be careful.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO May 14, 2007 rating: 5.6
Not really worth the effort.
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Sep 20, 2008 rating: 5.4
The description says gear to a 2 bolt anchor. I could not find an anchor... the rocks up top look a bit loose and I'm not sure what I would bolt. I built a gear anchor and walked off to the left.
I did this and Dihedral 1 and they both seemed substantially easier than 5.7. Comparing to other trad climbs in the area, I would say they are no harder than Breezy on the Wind Tower in Eldo (which is 5.4) and certainly not as hard as Tigger there which goes at 5.5. I suppose it depends on what you are comparing them to, but calling this a 5.7 trad climb just doesn't seem right. It is orders of magnitude easier than North Face Center (5.7) on Cob Rock (or Empor (5.7+)).
I don't like it when people sandbag, but everyone I was with thought these were easy, and if North Face Center on Cob is setting the 5.7 standard for Boulder Canyon trad, then these ought to be several grades easier.
Definitely boltless and anchorless. I ended up climbing to the anchors for Dihedral One (not recommended, massive rope drag). I think there's one or two 5.7 moves in the corner, right off the ledge.
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