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I Have a Dream 
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Scientist, The 

Middle

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
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Boulder Falls approach closed on 3/30/09 MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.


Description 

These routes are in the middle of Plotinus Wall, to the right of the giant obvious corner.

L->R:

A. The Scientist, 11-, 1p, 80', 8 bolts, green & blue Aliens. Thin slab.
B. Plotinus, 10, 1p, 80', gear. Follow rising crack.
C. Rama, 11-, 1p, 110', 3 bolts & small-to-medium gear. V-shaped corner.
D. Lucid Dreaming, 13-, 1p, 8 bolts. Arete.

On a short wall down below:

E. I Have a Dream, 11-, 1p, 40', 4 bolts.


Getting There 

Follow the approach for Plotinus Wall. It will take you to the wall just below The Scientist.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle:
The Scientist   5.11a/b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Lucid Dreaming   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Middle

Featured Route For Middle
Ridge dreaming of air well before the crux on LC; photo by Bob Ratliff.

Lucid Dreaming 5.12d  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Middle
Just right of Rama on the Plotinus Wall is a beautiful, overhanging arete. This is Lucid Dreaming. Stick-clip the first bolt then power up a series of tricky, strenuous moves to a stopper move near the the fourth bolt. Crank up over the bulge and follow the steep face up to a two-bolt anchor. Classic and hard arete climbing on beautiful granite. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO