Left Side

Boulder Falls approach closed on 3/30/09 MORE INFO >>> Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks has temporarily closed Boulder Falls due to potentially unsafe conditions in the cliffs above the falls. No date was set for reopening the area. Boulder Falls was still closed as of 5/19/09. The only legal access to Lower Dream Canyon during this closure is via Upper Dream Canyon. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side

Description 

These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

L->R:

A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', 12 bolts. Start up in L gully.
A2. Bedtime Story, 10, 1p, 90', 11 bolts.
B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, medium gear. Long RFD.
D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', 7 bolts. Steep slab.
E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', 9 bolts. Bulge and slab.
E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', 10 bolts, optional gear.
F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', 8 bolts. Slab to roof.
FF. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, 5 bolts. Above F or G.
G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', 8 bolts. Slab, overlap, thin seam.
I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', 4 bolts. Along flake.
J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, gear, 1975. Funky crack.
K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, 8 bolts. Dihedral to roof.
L. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', 10 bolts. Behind tree.
M. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', 8 bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
N. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', 11 bolts. Layback, face, arete.
O. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, 11 bolts. Rising traverse R.
P. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', 8 bolts. Zig-zag up face behind tree.
QP. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', 12 bolts.
R. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, 9 bolts. Start up overhanging wall.

Getting There 

Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

The Classics