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Arcanum 
Crack of Dawn 
Eight Miles High 
Immaculate Deception 
Kama Sutra 
Lightspeed 
Mind Bender 
MLK 
Mystic Mile 
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 
Tree of Life, The 
Walk on the Wide Side 
Wave, The 
Wings of Desire 

Main Wall

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
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BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.


Description 

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
B. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
C1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Hand crack through roof.
C2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
D. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
E. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to steep face.
F. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
G. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
H. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
I1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
I2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of H.
J. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
K1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
K2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
L. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
M. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.


Getting There 

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Eight Miles High   5.10a     Sport, 2 pitches, 210 feet   
Kama Sutra   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   
Mystic Mile   5.10c     Sport, 2 pitches, 190 feet   
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Lightspeed   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Wings of Desire   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet   
Mind Bender   5.11c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Rob Andrew heel-hooking the 10c crux overhang on the first pitch.

Mystic Mile 5.10c  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
Mystic Mile is a good climb on good clean rock, with a few hard moves low down on the first pitch, and another hard move on pitch two, with a lot of somewhat easier nice slab climbing in between.Mystic Mile starts from "Ledge Two" at a small tree growing at the base of the wall, 15 feet left of the rap anchor for Into the Mystic. This anchor is at eye level as you walk along Ledge Two. The start is 20 feet right of the first big tree on Ledge Two...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful anchor above a narrow ledge, 40 feet above the final 2-ring anchor on Wings of Desire. This anchor is useful if one wishes to finish Kama Sutra, Tree of Life or Wings of Desire at the top of the wall. <br /><br />To rappel from this anchor with a single 200-foot rope, it is (I think) necessary to rap to the anchors at the tops of Wings of Desire or Kama Sutra, then down again to the 2-ring anchor atop the first pitch of Kama Sutra. Then one more time (about 70 feet) to Ledge Two.<br /><br />NOTE: It is not possible (with a 200-foot rope) to rappel all the way to the first 2-ring anchor on Kama Sutra and make Ledge Two in just 2 raps. It takes 3 raps to reach Ledge 2 from this anchor at the top of the wall.

BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...