The South Pillar is on the far left side of Sleeping Beauty. There are two sport routes here (Black Rain and Aerial Boundaries); the rest of the routes require gear. All routes have two-bolt anchors at the top.
L->R:
A. Jungle of Stone, 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolts. R-facing corner to roof. B. Sleeping Beauty Girdle, 3p, 420', gear & bolts. Start on A & traverse R across entire cliff. C. Black Rain, 10, 1p, 130', bolts. Black water streak. D. Water Spirit, 10, 1p, 90', gear & bolts. Hand crack through black roof. E. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. L-facing corner & roof. F. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & roof.
Getting There
Hike the trail along the base of Sleeping Beauty to a series of vegetated ledges on the left side. After the scramble up to the left edge of Ledge 2, walk left a short distance and step up onto some blocks. Cut back right past the right side of a horizontal dead tree to a nice alcove with a large tree.
Look for a right-facing corner with a nice hand crack that leads to a small bulge/roof with a single bolt at the start. This is Jungle of Stone. To the right of this corner is a dark black streak on a slab with bolts (Black Rain 10b).
A 70m rope is seriously helpful for the South Pillar climbs. A 60m is mandatory and tying in to the end is mandatory if you're going to lower the leader rather than rappel. With a 60m, if you belay Jungle of Stone or Black Rain from the tree at the left, the leader will NOT reach the ground if you lower with a 60m, not even by swinging far right. The second will need to climb up as the leader lowers the last 15' or so. If you belay the climbs on the right from high up on the right side of the slab, you can just barely lower the leader.
South Pillar
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