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Fourth Buttress

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Heartland, The 
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Fourth Buttress

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst
Latitude: 40.0122  Longitude: -105.3090 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
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BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress
1. Standard Route (7+)
2. West Face...



Description 

The Fourth Buttress has several good routes: Northwest Face, 8+; The Heartland, 9+; Zolar Czakl (Direct), 10- R. There is a small buttress on top of the 4th Buttress which contain a few more feet of climbing, if you are so inclined. Access for the right side of the buttress is unclear, so tread cautiously, please.

L->R:

A. Flake, 10 R, 1-2p, gear.
B. Zolar Czakl, 9+, 1-2p, gear.
C. Zolar Czakl (Direct), 10- R, 1-2p, gear.
D. Northwest Face, 8, 1-2p, gear.
E. The Heartland, 9+, 1-2p, gear.
F. Southwest Chimney?, 4, 1-2p, gear.
G. South Face Roof, 7 A3 or C2, 1-2p, gear.
H. Endgame?, 10-, 1-2p, gear.
I. Candelaria's Crack?, 8, 2p, gear.
J. Mickey Mantle?, 9, 2p, gear.
K. Azimuth?, 10, 1-2p, gear
L. Mr. Atrophy?, 12-, 1-2p, gear.
M. Wait Until Dark?, 10, 1-2p, gear.
N. After Dark?, 10+, 1-2p, gear.
O. Cloddy Corner?, 6, 1-2p, gear.

Above the 4th Buttress
AA. unknown, 9, 1p, 40', face to corner - W face.
BB. unknown crack, 8?, 1p, 40',- W face, leadable.
CC. unknown crack, 8, 1p, 40',- W face.
DD. Grand Jam, 7, 1p, 40'.


Getting There 

For routes on the left side of the face, there 2 alternatives. 1) more popular - cross the bridge, hike up to the water pipe, and walk right to the end of the pipe, at the tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. 2) you can hike on the larger trail along the river to below the crag and do a loose scramble up to the buttress. You can belay here, anchoring in to a huge eye bolt in the rock or you can cautiously scramble across to below the face and create a belay.

There are routes which lie on the south face of the Fourth Buttress. To access these, you have to walk along a trail near the creek until you're around on the south side of the crag. Approaching these from the east is not recommended.


Descents 

There are multiple options for descent: 1) If the water level is low enough, the easier descent may be the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 2) You can also scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) You can downclimb the 4th class gully between the 2nd & 3rd buttresses. It is exposed, thus it is not ideal in the rain or with beginners. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe all the way back to the Fourth Buttress.



Add Photo Photos of Fourth Buttress
The Elephant Buttresses.  Most routes start off the water pipe; Tough Situation and Classic Finger Crack can be accessed by scrambling down from the top. <br /><br />The easiest walk-off is between the First Buttress and the Dome.   You can also rappel from the top of Pine Tree route.  Descent via the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress is sometimes possible.  <br /><br />Watch out for poison ivy!

BETA PHOTO: The Elephant Buttresses. Most routes start off th...

Above the 4th Elephant Buttresses.  Some short routes to play upon.

BETA PHOTO: Above the 4th Elephant Buttresses. Some short rou...


Add Comment Comments on Fourth Buttress
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By fluffy
May 12, 2006

There is now a rap/toprope anchor consisting of a horn slung with cable and a bolt with chain at the top. One 60m leaves plenty of room to get back to the pipe. Thanks to whomever installed this.

By Paz Ramirez
From: CO
Jul 20, 2006

Who installed this anchor/toprope pile of a mess? Entirely unnecessary, part of this anchor consists of a chain cemented (not a bolt) into the ground/rock on one end and the other end hangs over the edge. Would this hold weight? Do we know? No, we don't.
The wire cable slung over the horn is entirely unnecessary and is now gone, freakin' eyesore. Don't do stupid shit like this, and who carried Quickrete up there?

By Aeon Aki
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2007

Though I wouldn't trust the cemented chain by itself, the fixed sling paired with it provided a safe rap to the ground. Maybe not necessary, but convenient nonetheless.