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Third Buttress

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Ah Maw 
Feathers 
FM 
Left Wing 
Mojo Rising 
Monster Woman 
No Mo' Jo' 
Standard Route 
Standard Variation 
West Face (variation) 
What's Up? 
Wingtip 


Third Buttress

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Latitude: 40.0125  Longitude: -105.3080 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
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BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress
1. Standard Route (7+)
2. West Face...



Description 

The Third Buttress is the most popular of the Elephant Buttresses & is home to a number of good, moderate routes on solid rock: Standard Route, 7+; Monster Woman, 8+; Wingtip, 10c; Left Wing, 10c; What's Up?, 10d; and the impressive FM, 11c. This area can be quite popular. It does have the unique aspect that multiple of its routes start on or near an old pipeline.

Some routes start up a gully between the Second and Third Buttress, and others start right off the water pipe. Routes here are 1-2 pitches long. No bolts here.

L->R:

A. Feathers, 8+, 1p, gear.
B. Wingtip, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
C. Left Wing, 10, 1p, gear.
D. Pegasus?, 11, 1p, gear.
E. Misdirected?, 11+, 1p, gear.
F. What's Up.?, 10+, 1p, gear.
G. FM, 11, 1-2p, gear.
H. Kangaroof?, 11, 2p, gear.
I. Mojo Rising, 9, gear.
J?. No Mo' Jo', 11+, 1-2p, gear.
K. Variation?, 9+, 2p, gear.
L. Standard Route, 7+, 2p, gear.
M. Monster Woman, 9-, 2p, gear.
N. Ah Maw?, 10- R, 2p, gear.
O. West Face, 7, 1-2p, gear.


Getting There 

Cross the bridge, go R, go up to the water pipe, and walk right, past the First and Second Buttress, to the Third Buttress. There are several prominent cables anchored from the pipe to the rock.


Descents 

There are multiple options: 1) The most commonly used descent is the 4th class to low 5th class downclimb down the ramp, but this is exposed. This is not advisable with beginners or in the rain. 2) Scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) If the water level is low enough, you can take the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe back to the Third Buttress.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Third Buttress:
Standard Route   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches   
Standard Variation   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   
Mojo Rising   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches   
Left Wing   5.10c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
What's Up?   5.10d     Trad, 2 pitches   
FM   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Third Buttress

Featured Route For Third Buttress
At the beginning of the "double dihedral" crux section after clipping a piton. Photo by Tara S.

FM 5.11c  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Third Buttress
This route is on the Third Elephant Buttress, on the north side. To access it walk along the pipe till you reach a gully between the Second and Third Buttresses. Scramble about 20 feet up the gully to the base of the climb. This climb follows a left facing dihedral that begins about 40 feet up. The route is to the right of Left Wing and starts up a short face to an obvious, chalked finger crack. Make some challenging moves to gain the finger crac...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Third Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
The Elephant Buttresses.  Most routes start off the water pipe; Tough Situation and Classic Finger Crack can be accessed by scrambling down from the top. <br /><br />The easiest walk-off is between the First Buttress and the Dome.   You can also rappel from the top of Pine Tree route.  Descent via the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress is sometimes possible.  <br /><br />Watch out for poison ivy!

BETA PHOTO: The Elephant Buttresses. Most routes start off th...


Comments on Third Buttress Add Comment
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By Phil Lauffen
From: Boulder
Apr 19, 2009

Does anyone know what the route that goes to the right of the end of the Standard Route on the top part of the Third Elephant Buttress? I got to it by climbing up the far right side of the Third Elephant Buttress. It fires right up twin slightly-overhanging cracks that has a fixed nut in the right one just below the crux. It spit me off a few times today, and I want to know its grade.... for purely selfish reasons.