BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features.
Note:...
Description
The Middle Wall is a popular area at Avalon. The classic Strange Science (11c) is a big attraction. Free Fall (12a) is another great route just right of Strange Science. Around the corner to the right lies a big slab which has several popular moderate routes, including Incline Club (8), Tomb of Sorrows (9), and Disinclination (7).
Routes from left to right:
A. Supernatural, 10+, 1p, 80', 7 bolts. Corners to steep headwall. B. Strange Science, 11, 1p, 50', 6 bolts. Concave steep wall. C. Free Fall, 11+, 7 bolts. Overhanging arete. D. Rip Cord, 12-, 1p, 50', 5 bolts. Overhanging thin cracks. E. Disinclination, 6, 1p, 90', 8 bolts. Corner->angle L on slab. F. Flashpoint, 10+, 1p, 40', 3 bolts. Steep corner atop Disinclination. G. Midway, 6, 1p, 3 bolts & gear. Crack up center of slab. H. Incline Club, 7+, 1p, 100', 8 bolts. Corner->angle R on slab. I. Tomb of Sorrows, 8-, 1p, 75', 6 bolts. Chimney to slab.
Getting There
Climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt path starts at the top of the talus. Follow the path uphill a bit until the trail splits. Continue up the hill on the right trail branch. You'll eventually reach a steep wall with a scooped-out face; this is the route Strange Science. Free Fall is the arete to the right. The slab routes Disinclination and Incline Club start just up the hill to the right, at a right-facing corner. Tomb of Sorrows starts at the top of the slab in a chimney on the left.
I'll stick my neck out and give Strange Science three stars (at least by Boulder Canyon standards). The climb is pretty obvious as you hike up the faint trail to Avalon. The route follows a line of small flakes up the center of a beautiful forty-foot high scooped face, a pleasingly natural and independent line. The right arete, Free Fall, is bolted and (5.12a?) has a steep bouldery look, with a seam and closely-spaced bolts. Right a...[more]
Middle Wall
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