Let the Daylight In 

I went up to do this route, today, and I broke this key handhold off. It was a very good hold, and it is now a bad sloper. The route felt like 12Aish with it, but it is solid 5.12 without it. I was up there with Matt Samet, and he was able to redpoint it without the hold. He seems to think it is probably 12b/c now. The third clip is much harder now.

Be very careful standing on the detached blocks at the first bolt. A basketball-size chunk broke off, when I stepped on it, and almost took out my belayer. Make sure that the belayer and rope pile are back far enough away from the wall in case the rest of this huge block goes. It is probably a hundred pounds, and could easily kill someone. It is not a matter of if, but when

Otherwise, this is a really good route.

Ken...Is that the new crux moves???

It feels like the crux to me. I was going to glue the hold back on, but I am having second thoughts now that Matt did the route without it.