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Retirement Rock
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Early Bird Special 
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Early Bird Special 

5.11-

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 258 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Feb 6, 2006


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Description 

On the west face, start 15 feet right of the arete. Climb up the steep face on small holds to a two bolt anchor on a ledge.


Protection 

Six bolts will get you a two bolt anchor.



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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.11b

After the second bolt, there is a stretch of blank face. This is the crux. The move, as I did it, is a lunge/deadpoint to a good left hand. The hands and feet for the move are good but it is committing. This move is probably somewhat height-dependent.

By Ken Cangi
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2007
rating: 5.11-

This is a surprisingly good route, and I am almost tempted to give it three stars, except that it is a bit short. The climbing, on positive edges and sidepulls, is interesting all the way to the anchors. I didn't find the lunge mentioned above. On the contrary, I found good holds within reach the entire way.

Good job, Bob and Greg.

Hey, Greg. Screw the wheelchair access. I enjoyed bushwacking away from the crowds for a change. I liked it so much that I'm going back, tomorrow, to do the 5.12.