Runaway 

An excellent pitch; perhaps the best 5.8 sport route I've done in Boulder Canyon.

Moderate climbing at the bottom which gradually gets harder the higher you go, with a crux around the 9th bolt. I placed a medium wired nut below the crux, and a #1 Camalot in the corner leading to the anchor.

A 70m rope is perfect; you can lower and touch down with several feet of rope to spare.

I looked at the photo and thought, "This is a trad climb!" So today I checked it out on self-belay. The bolts were useful...to find the start of the climb, to know when to leave the main crack system, and to rap from. Other than that the gear was straightforward except when first leaving the main crack. There, the first piece was trick, and the next piece was a fair microcam with optional long sling over horn backup. After that the gear is again straightforward.

The "this crag is all sport" excuse won't work, since there are, counting from Rolofson's version 1 guide, 5 all trad routes plus 1 variation here, plus there are 2 mixed bolt/gear routes, The Bait and Pri-Moe. The "needed cleaning" excuse won't work I think, since the FA party recommended bringing some trad gear (and so why not all trad?), and the cracks don't look like they were significantly cleaned.

As for quality, ignoring the sport vs trad issue and assuming this cleans up some, I still don't get the 3-star talk. I think it's a 1-star compared to other 2-star trad and sport climbs in this grade on this site.

As for difficulty_much easier than many Eldo 8s, and way easier than the Cozyhang (an alleged 7). Can't say relative to the 8 sport routes. Maybe comparable, but I can't remember the ones I've done so well.

If you're going to do this trad, bring nuts from big brass to about 3/4". Cams from micro to #2 Camalot with doubles from about 1" up. About 18-20 slings, including 5 or more full length, since you'll probably be using more pieces of gear than there are bolts. If you're a beginning trad climber consider bringing a rack and clipping every other bolt.

The soil at the base is very loose and sandy. Tread carefully. Someone, the FA party presumably, thoughtfully constructed a nice but somewhat shaky platform at the base. There is a loose block that you'll be tempted to grab a few feet off the ground. It may be keyed in and safe, but it moves, so best to avoid it.

Ivan wrote: The "this crag is all sport" excuse won't work, since there are, counting from Rolofson's version 1 guide, 5 all trad routes plus 1 variation here, plus there are 2 mixed bolt/gear routes, The Bait and Pri-Moe. The "needed cleaning" excuse won't work I think, since the FA party recommended bringing some trad gear (and so why not all trad?), and the cracks don't look like they were significantly cleaned.

I don't think the FA party made any excuse/excuses for the route. They climbed the route in the style that they saw fit.

Maybe you should spend less time repeating and criticizing other people's efforts and do FA's of your own.

I am sure Ken Heiser would be more than happy to join you in your effort.

Climbed this route tonight. Long pitch, lots of easy climbing on good positive edges. But not sustained at the grade, one (8) move IMO. I placed a blue alien above what I thought might be the crux move. Did throw a #2 camalot high in the crack in the last 10'. FWIW, I would feel comfortable leading this trad with small wires and aliens, and a #2, but i have no problem with the bolts, as I clipped them tonight. Without clipping bolts, this climb would be interesting for the grade. Will go back in daylight sometime to do just that...One note...the breadbox sized block 20' off the ground moved when I touched it, and if not removed, might injure or kill someone sooner or later...

No matter how you feel about the bolting or the style of ascent of this route...you really have to wonder why this wasn't climbed by someone like Ivan and company year ago ?

He seems quick to criticize and tell other how to climb but put little or no effort in doing FA's of trad-routes in the area.

A brilliant route in a beautiful setting. At this time of the year, it is in full sunshine in the morning. A classic fall day without a cloud in the sky complemented the route. What a find! Good job Rick & Brian.

A silk purse from a sow's ear, Runaway is amazingly good given the nondescript terrain it covers. A reported 4 DAYS of cleaning brought the route to its current condition, which perhaps sheds some light on why our various vocal trads ignored the route until the bolts made it easy to locate.

Note to "but there's gear" activists: this route would *never* have been done ground up trad (not because it isn't possible, but because death blocks and moss aren't appealing). Now it's going to get climbed every weekend -good job guys.

Stiff for the grade at the top crux - I'll call it old school 5.9+. Go do it.

Whether climbed sport or trad, this is no "brilliant route". It pales in comparison to, eg, the trad and sport routes on Sleeping Beauty.

Ivan,

Certainly the routes on Sleeping Beauty are great.Which 5.8 on Sleeping Beauty are you comparing this one to? There are few sport 5.8s around that are as good as this one. It is long with lots of climbing at a consistent grade. It gets full sun on cool fall days and no one else was there. I think it will be enjoyed by many. If you don't like it, don't go. I hope you did not use the convenience anchor when you climbed it trad.

...Very good route in a nice setting with lots of good climbing in a less traveled section of the cliff.

Good job, Rich and Brian.

I trundled the loose block just left of the first bolt today. It took only a slight push with my foot to send the block to the ground. There is now a nice flat ledge where the block was; this should make the move past the first bolt a little easier.

Climbed this two days ago, incredible route. It really was a bit runout at times, but if you're a confident 5.8-5.9 leader, it shouldn't freak you out too bad. Great route, though!