Left Wing 

A very worthwhile route. I found that a #2 Camalot protects the "sporty" undercling well. There is a good flake where you can place the cam and milk a rest before launching up and left through the undercling section.

This is my favorite route on the Elephant Buttresses and I probably have done it at least 4 times. Finding reasonable rests is key as the route will pump you out fast. I always struggle trying to rest before the second crux (undercling left).

GB is right on in his comment about rests. Even though you get a juggy ledge before the second crux, the time you spend placing gear and looking at the undercling saps you. At the ledge, I put my left arm across the hold and as I remember it, I did an inverted (?) right foot knee drop in the vertical crack just below. Inverted meaning drop your knee as if you were sitting indian style, not the more common knee drop. Hug into the rock and the rest is great! Oftentimes sport climbing style makes trad climbing far more difficult than necessary (ie., doing 5.12 face moves next to a 5.8 crack). It's nice when the two styles reinforce each other.

As Quinn mentions, there is a juggy ledge, and it looks like it should be a pretty good rest. However, the wall overhangs above this ledge, and it can be hard to get off the arms.

This is a tough route both physically and mentally. After I pulled the 10c crux, I wanted a piece real bad before I did more laybacking to the jug...but you are in this really strenuous laybacking position and it is very hard to place pro--it took everything I had to place a "textbook" red Alien at my waist, but the friggin' rock was so greasy that when I gave her a tug she just slipped right out. This ended any thoughts of a clean ascent (although good gear is available)! QS or GB, do y'all just run it out past the crux to the jug to place gear?? Quite a whip if your foot popped! The second crux is short and powerful, there is a big foot out left that saves you, and a no hands rest afterwards.

I'll give it 3 stars so the average increases a little--easily 2.5 stars in my book. To follow on Jay's comment, I think a key for this route is not stopping to place gear from those bad stances. You only need the fixed piece at the first crux, a couple pieces in between before the traverse--then go.

And oh BTW, Quinn really is a sport climber so his rack advice up to only #1 Friend is a little skimpy--you can place several pieces in the 2-2.5 range.

What a great route! I happened to choose one of the hottest, most humid days of the summer to get on it, which added a little excitement, but still didn't find it to be greasy (as mentioned above). This is one of the best 5.10+ trad lines in the canyon IMHO. The fixed friend near the first crux no longer has a sling to clip, so plan on placing a red Alien or equivalent next to it. I think the red Alien / purple Jr. is the only size that I placed more than one of (possibly 2 green Jr.'s).

I'll give this three stars. Cool route with varied and interesting climbing. You can place solid pro from good stances but expect some pretty run-out climbing in between. Great after work climb.

Pretty sustained pitch. Off the belay ledge 5.8 face move lead to another stance below the crux which really zapped me of arm strength for the rest of the pitch. Good gear under the roof lead to a series of underclings to the flake, which is scary feeling. As mentioned above, the jugs at the top of the flake are a relief, but don't really provide much of a rest stop. Place a #1 Camalot in the undercling and jet through to the corner. I fell from this point, as I was totally blown out. The rest is cake. Really good route.

Really great climb! I placed mostly nuts and small TCUs (one blue and one yellow). I don't think anything bigger than a #0.5 BD cam is necessary unless you protect by the fixed piece. Also you can find some rests by jamming up and then using that position to place gear. Definitely worth doing.

Take the #2, leave the doubles.

I did this very fun route again a few days ago, after a decade-and-a-half hiatus. What's up with the "new bolt that protects a few feet below the roof and the first crux"? Don't want to start a bolting spewfest, but I don't think this bolt was here in the old days, and I didn't see any reason to clip it; the protection in the crack is fine. It's not that I was in some heroic run-it-out mood; that bolt just isn't particularly well placed. A useless retro-bolt on a historic route, or am I missing something?

There's an interesting variation to this that departs from the route after the first fifteen feet. Climb the initial corner but when you get to the ledge from which the bolt can be clipped, continue straight up the corner. You'll encounter a pin with a fixed blue Alien right next to it; continue up the very steep corner passing another pin; you'll get to some jugs and then a very strenuous move is needed to stand up on the jugs (and another pin can be clipped before committing to that move). We opted to traverse right to easier ground from there but it looks like this variation continues straight up. It felt like it was around 11-.